Kanchanaburi: peace returns

All that cycling had made me thirsty and only a stiff drink was suitable after the sights I had encountered. Heading to the Jolly Frog, a guest house set back from the main road, overlooking the river Kwai, I met a couple called Jess and Josh. We proceeded to drink Sam Song whiskey and soda and talk about our travel experiences. After finishing the bottle, we decided to move on and headed to the only lively bar in town - the place where I ate my lunch. We order more whiskey and played some Jenga. Before long, there were 8 of us at the table. Everyone was staying at the Jolly Frog and raved about how good it was. I decided that was where I should relocate to! After polishing of another bottle of whiskey, I decided to call it a night as I did, after all, have to get up at 8am!

My journey home was horrendous. I almost got mauled by a bunch of barking dogs, potentially sending me flying of my bike, and returned to find my bungalow infested with bugs! The bed was crawling with tiny black insects and I had no idea why they where there or where they had come from. I resorted to using my towel to beat the crap out of them, trying to sweep them onto the floor. I was in a drunken haze and being far to over-dramatic, prancing about like a girl (yes, I am aware the fact that I am indeed female). Once I could see no more of the critters, I lathered myself in tiger balm, as I had no bug spray, climbed in my silk condom (sleeping bag liner for those in the know) and laid in the middle of my bed. Stiff as a plank, I started to burn from the heat of the tiger balm. Like deep heat, it is supposed to sooth sore skin and aching muscles, neither of which I was suffering from. My eyes began to well as I breathed in the intense smell radiating from my body and seeping from my pores. It made for one sleepless night

I was packed and ready first thing. Knowing that there were still insects lurking in the woodwork I wasted no time in leaving my cabin... it had all but lost its charm. The bus arrived and me and the girls climbed on - they had booked the same tour. An hour later, we arrived at the Erawan (7-steps) waterfall. It is hidden within the 500sq. km Erawan NP and, to date, has been the most beautiful sight I have encountered on my travels. The falls has been carved out of yellow limestone, making the water crystal clear. A subdued turquoise, the water shimmers and swirls as it gentle cascades down the slopes.  Starting at an elevation of 1500m, the falls meandered its way down through dense forest to met the Kwai Yai River. The trek to each level is more of a scramble than a climb, a sort of assault course that requires good footwear. My sandals managed to make the journey, but it is certainly inadvisable. Climbing over tangled tree roots, fallen branches and, precariously placed boulders, you duck and dive through the undergrowth, trying hard not to lose your footing. Each level had a steeper incline and more obstacles, but each level was more magical than the last.

Upon entering the park you have to pay a deposit of 50 baht for each bottle you take in. It is a great system as it means rubbish is kept to a minimal and preserves the parks natural beauty. However, it is also in place  as to prevent any unwanted guests. Wild monkeys reside in the park and are not afraid of wandering tourists. We first spotted a monkey when we were at the third step. Hearing a rustle in the trees, me and the girls pointed our cameras skywards. A few moments later, the monkey clambered down and scurried past us. It kindly posed for some picture but lost its temper soon after: we decided it was a good time to leave.

We had around 4 hours in the park and needed every second. It meant that we could climb at a leisurely pace, and allowed us to take a dip at a few of the tiers. All the pools have small fish that nip at you when you are stationery. Unpleasant at first, it soon becomes rather therapeutic. All through SEA, there are vendors offering fish spas. It is basically a tank full of these fish, but instead of free flowing water, it is a thick, murky aqueous solution of dead skin. I never saw the appeal, but having a free one at the waterfalls was definitely a highlight.

Finally making it to the top after almost two hours of treachery, we were greeted by a billowing roar. The final tier was the most spectacular; a 70 foot waterfall crashed against the rocks below carving out a deep but modestly sized pool. Inviting and deservedly so! We all slid from the limestone into the pool and eased are aching muscles. Shrubs predominated the banks allowing us to stare up at the clear sky, the colour resembling that of the falls. Basking in the sun, we breathed in the clear air; filling our lungs with the smell of sweet-perfumed flowers and freshly fallen rain. Birds could be heard whispering in the trees, whilst monkeys scrambled through the branches, snapping them as they went. The climb was all worth it! 


Our next stop was the death railway bridge, so-called as so many POWs lost their lives whilst building it. The tracks of the bridge hug the hillside and tower over the river Kwai. Steel posts interlink to form the main structure, whilst wooden beams form the tracks. We walk along part of the track to a small cave and shrine, created to honour all those that lost their lives. A monk sits chanting. I sit down behind him and pay respect to all those enslaved. I am the only one to do so.

We walked back to the platform and await the arrival of the train. Only a small part of the thai-burma railway remains in use. School children and farmers use it almost daily, but the tourist mob seem to outnumber the locals. The train ride is short but enjoyable and the scenery is great. We passed several villages, rolling hills and fields full of flowers. The sun was sinking in the sky and the warming glow created the perfect backdrop to the unfolding landscape. 

On the way back to town, we made our last stop at the bridge over Kwai. Architecturally beautiful, it pained me to think of the lives lost in its construction. I stared from the bridge and into the distant. The sun was setting. The Kwai was glistening, basking in the remaining rays of light. It had been a perfect day and one I will never forget.