Kanchanaburi a peaceful town that was once hell on earth (day 1)

12 hours spent carting my bags on and of buses, numerous security checks and a hellish walk from the Cambodian-Thai border, my feet finally touched down in Bangkok. Feeling more confident this time round, I had a much better nights sleep in this metropolis. I stayed in Green House, on the road parallel to Koh San. It was a far more chilled atmosphere and the free music made my day. A sound nights sleep.
Another bus, another trip. This time I just took my small backpack and left my big one at my hostel. I only planned to be gone for four days so brought just the essentials.

One place that I had been recommended to visit on numerous occasions, was the small, unassuming town of Kanchanaburi. Just a few hours outside of Bangkok, it is central Thailand’s equivalent to Chiang Mai. The river Kwai provides the water source for the lush vegetation shrouding this quite town. Fields of flowers and rolling hills gently caress the banks to the west of the city whilst the north lays in shadow of its mountainous ridge. It lies in the valley of this varied topography, creating a cool retreat that is far-removed from its intoxicating neighbour.

I was immediately taken aback by the views and my quaint little bungalow perched on the banks of the river Kwai made it that much more special. I had to go explore! Dumping most of the contents of my bag, I grabbed a map, hired a bike and head for the centre of town. The distance was longer than anticipated so contemplated relocating the following day... but I would think about that later. I had a wicked tofu curry cooked by this crazy lesbian woman who kept calling me hot. I found it highly amusing and rolled with it. She gave me some great advise on places to visit and drew a route for me on my map. Thanking her, I set off. Cycling for an hour, in the midday heat, was quite a challenge. There was a lot of steep hills and windy roads but it was made all worthwhile when I reached Wat with a name so complex I don't remember its name. It seemed almost like a graveyard for Buddhist statues no longer in use. There was a plethora of different sizes and shapes, some carved from stones, others made from more synthetic materials. All were elaborate and all were beautiful. There were several pagodas placed on an artificial pond, all connected by bamboo walkways. A few women were sat chatting and a few monks could be seen wondering around the premises contemplating life. I was the only tourist and I loved it. I wondered around and kept discovering statues hidden amongst trees or behind others. Just before leaving, a strange sound beckoned me. I walked over to find peacocks, deer and a toucan all in cages. They looked well looked after although the cages were definitely too small. I spent some time there talking to the deer... yes, this is totally normal! 

Cycling back to town, I passed another temple set atop a hill. Unfortunately it was shut as it was a Sunday but it was a nice walk nonetheless. Stopping on the way back to take photos, I thoroughly enjoyed the break from the city. The air is cleaner, the humidity is virtually unnoticeable and the varied landscape is something I was craving. I am definitely a country girl at heart. 

Shortly past the temple was the Chungkai War Memorial, commemorating all those who lost their lives as POWs (prisoners of war). My great great uncle was one of them! I paid my respects, slowly pacing up and down the endless rows of headstones. It was chilling and emotional.

Several hours after leaving, I made it back to town. Thoroughly exhausted and sweating profusely, I somehow decided to go visit the museum. The Thai-Burma railway museum was opened only a few years ago as it has taken so long to gather information about the brutal and painstaking construction of the train line. 

The railway was built during the height of Japans power. They were attacking the pacific left, right and center and now attempting to conquer China. Their conquest was relentless. 

The Straight of Malacca and the Andaman Sea, originally used to transport troops and equipment to Burma (invaded by Japan not long before)  was becoming too risky. So, with an aim of taking hold of India, Japan began building the Thai-Burma railway at the height of the second world war. The British empire had plans to build this railway years before the war but halted further development as it was considered to risky. The mountainous regions west of Kanchanaburi were considered impenetrable. Nonetheless, Japan's corruption and madness took none of this into consideration. Utilising POWs captured from the pacific, they were set to work on the railway. Working 18 hour days, seven days a week, with little food and unsanitary conditions, the situation was worse than hell. Many contracted malaria or cholera and malnutrition was commonplace. The museum has many photos that were captured at the time and they make for upsetting viewing. Two skeletal men stand outside an infirmary. They are weak and broken. The doctors consider them fit for work! A statue is placed in the centre of the lower gallery. Two men with malaria carry a man with cholera. The men are limp and tired. The man they are holding has his trousers by his ankles. They died shortly after. 

It is a truly harrowing experience, costing thousands of lives (over 100,000) and endless bloodshed. It took just one year two complete and almost two to destroy. At the end of world war II, in 1945, the bridge over the river Kwai was succesfully bombed.

Considered fit to work!

Siam Reap: Where to begin?

Leaving at 9am, it was just a few short hours until I crossed the border into Cambodia. It is still a strange experience, just hoping from one border to the next. The people, the landscape and the general vibe you experience seems to slowly change as you head into the heart of a new country. Traditions and ways of life are on display, for all to see, visible from the window of your ac-bus. Yet it is not till you step off, and make your way to your destination, that you begin to feel the welcoming embrace of the locals. Unfortunately, most stops on the bus line tend to be tourist hubs in bustling cities, full of congestion, noise and towering buildings. Phnom Penh definitely fits the brief. The fumes fill your lungs and the noise is almost deafening. Just like Ho Chi Minh, it takes a lot to get used to and can be hard to love. I was told not to stay long but it was due to time constraints, not advice, that stopped me from staying in the capital of Cambodia. It was simply a stop-gap for me on my way to Siam Reap.
While waiting for the bus, I got chatting to two girls heading in the same direction: Aafke, from Holland; and Skye, from San Francisco. Both were traveling solo but knew each other from a previous trip. Agogo, a local Cambodian Tuk-Tuk driver dating Aafke, was also there and after what seemed like an eternity of waiting, the girls, Agogo and I boarded the bus.
The trip door-to-door from HCM to Siam Reap took 15 hours. It was a long day! We checked into Siam Reap Rooms and headed to bed... off to the temples in the morning!
The temples of Siam Reap, are expansive, extensive and complex. There are over 100 temples scattered amongst an area greater than 400 square kilometers. However, the ones still fairly well preserved are accessible within about a 20km radius. Ideally you need three days to make the most of what is on offer but we ambitiously attempted it in 2! Starting on the first day, we set out about midday to do the 'grand tour'. Leaving at the hottest point of the day was a bad move but the breeze created from our little tuk-tuk provided some comfort. Our driver, Mr. Mean, was in fact the nicest driver I have encountered. He was recommended by our guesthouse and I would advise all future travellers to look him up.

The Khmer temples were built during Angkor period (between the 9th - 13th century). Jayavarman II, the ruling king, wanted to build his capital 'angkor' (city) here. Taking so long to complete, it has become a collection of cities, each dedicated to a different king. Thus, all temples are unique and each represents a different deity and purpose. Although some were all-encompassing others paid homage to only one religion.

Day 1
We started in Wat Bayon, the last temple to be built during Khmer rule by the buddhist king Jayavarman VII in his capital of Angkor Thom. It was later altered by Hindu kings so both buddhist and hindu relics are seen throughout. Stone faces predominate and are scattered around the many-layered temple. Bas-reliefs representing mythical scenes and historic battles are also visible; another feature universal to the temples of Siam Reap.

Baphuon was next. Originally constructed to worship the Hindu god Shiva, it was later changed to honour Buddha in the 15th century. The whole temple and surrounding raised pathways were all built on sand, so many of the foundations have given way and crumbled. The main complex was closed when we were there, but the surrounding forests and grand walkways make it a worthwhile visit. Similarly, Prasat suor prat, a collection of 12 identical temples, is worth a look due to its peaceful setting with adjoining lake.
We made our way back to Mr. Mean and all piled back into the tuk-tuk. Banteay Kdei was next on the agenda. A Buddhist 'citadel of chanbers', it was a beautifully ornate temple, with trees strangling the structures and constricting the foundations they have kept it well preserved.
Neak Pean was next on our stop, with an impressively long gangway leading to its entrance. It is best visited in the rainy season when the moated exterior and flooded interior spring to life. Unfortunately it was fairly dry on our visit, although the heavens soon opened and the internal lake began to fill. We were soaked through by the time we returned but decided to carry on regardless.
Pre Rup was the last temple. It is supposed to have great views for sunset due to its height and location; overlooking the beautiful forests and temples around angkor. The sunset never materialised, as it was hidden by storm clouds, but the pounding rain was a great alternative. It poured and poured, soaking us to the core. It made for a treacherous climb to the summit, but was well worth it. Local children danced in the rain and we all left with smiles on our faces.
It was about 7pm when we finally returned. Me and sky went out for dinner and a few drinks. I had my first taste of amok, an amazing local specialty of veg, lemon grass and spices in a creamy curry. Yum!

Day 2
Sunrise at Angkor. It was a pretty pathetic sunrise as it was overcast and half of the temple was under construction, but the sheer size is a beauty to behold. Angkor wat is dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, the preserver, and to his human embodiment in Suryavarman II, who was considered a god-king. Arriving around half 5, we spent several hours walking around the intricate palace.
We drove about half an hour out of the main temple complex to visit Banteay Srey. The 'Citadel of women' was a Buddhist temple built in the 10th century. It was markedly different to many of the other temples we saw, with its red bricks and small stature. The nearby museum was great to visit as it was somewhat of a struggle for us to figure out the purpose of many of the temples. The informative displays filled in the gaps and made us appreciate the magnitude of the undertaking.
Beng Mealea, a temple almost in disrepair, has been taken over by forest. What remains are dark and menacing corridors and beautiful courtyards. It is tricky trying to navigate yourself round the ruin but it is a serene, if not slightly foreboding, place to visit.
My favourite temple, Ta Phrom, is one of the better know temples as it was the film set for Tomb raider. It is essentially in ruins, but the roots of trees that entwine the temple are holding up the remnants. It is beautifully ornate and a maze to navigate. Highly recommended!
Prasat Kravan, built in the 10th century, is dedicated to Vishnu. Another red-brick structure it was another favourite. The smallest of all the temples we saw, it is intricate yet understated. It proves that grandure and factitious detail somewhat take away from the true essence of a temple; to honour the deity that lies at the core of religion.
Almost 13 hours after leaving our hostel, we finally returned. Not wanting to miss out on my final night in Siam Reap, I headed out with Sky, Aafke and Agogo. Amok was on the menu and I happily tucked into another tasty bowl. Beers were drank, shots were had and dancing was done. A great end to my few short days in Cambodia.

It must be noted that I did visit a few other temples. However, my memory escapes me. Either way, the memories and mental images will always stay prominent in my thoughts!

Ho Chi Minh City

Another cramped night on a bus with little sleep; I was glad to finally arrive in Ho Chi Minh. Unfortunately are arrival was at 6.30am so all hostel were still in a slumber. As I couldn't deal with the torture that would be inflicted by my backpack, I decided to give up and check into a hotel. Soon after checking in, I booked myself onto a trip to the Cu Chi tunnels and left at 8am.
Somehow managing to summon up some energy, I started chatting with some people on my bus. After an hours drive, we arrived at the eerie sight, set amongst plantation forests, near the border of  Cambodia. The area was frequently targeted during the Vietnam war, so in order to protect the people, the community and Viet Cong (a south vietnamese political army) built a complex system of tunnels as well as weaponry and traps.  The tunnels were equipped to house all of the villagers and even had living quarters and access to water. However, disease was rife and many lost their lives to malaria. (Despite this, one woman apparently managed to spend 27 years down in the tunnels). Some tunnels are still open to the public, and we all had the chance to crawl through a 40m stretch of one of them. Cramped can't even begin to describe how I felt. I know the Vietnamese are short in stature but it must have been a struggle, especially when you are living with hundreds of others. My knees couldn't support my weight so I had to literally crawl, making the journey somewhat longer. It was also surprisingly warm down there, and it wasn't even the hottest part of the day. It is horrible to imagine what existence must have been like for those involved in the war. An introductory video even highlighted how young girls were shooting riffles. However, the severe bias towards all Americans was a bit overplayed. People were awarded medals for being 'American killers' and there was an over-emphasis on the 'American imperialists' (although I can agree with them on that one).
Returning back to HCM, feeling quite affected, me and Mark, another American I met, stupidly decided to follow our experience by a trip to the War Remnants Museum. It is definitely worth a trip, but not straight after the tunnels.
The museum comprised several sections. An outside gallery housing military vehicles and a display showing you the POW camp on Phu Quoc Island; a gallery in the entrance displaying all the posters and protests of support Vietnam from countries around the world; a room displaying images of the victims of agent orange; a section commemorating all the photographers who lost their lives and a display of their finest work; and, a few others of a similar description. Each room evoked different emotions, whether it be compassion, joy, horror or sympathy. It was beautifully executed and although very anti-American, it was totally justified. The brutality  and bloodshed cost thousands of lives and is still affecting people today, whether it be due to the loss of a loved one, or the defects that has become commonplace amongst offspring of former soldiers due to the use of US defoliants.
We must have spent about 2 hours in the War Remnants Museum. It took a lot out of us and our walk home was fairly quite. We needed a drink. A road up from where we were staying was a strip of local bars and cheap eats. We sat down on plastic chairs made for children and ordered to large Saigon beers. We got chatting to some locals and attracted many a hawker. I normally maintain patience with hawkers for a few minutes before I have to say 'No, I do not need that plastic Jesus, now go pray on someone else', but with Mark I managed to have a joke with the locals and thoroughly enjoyed the hassle. He has a very comical persona and managed to make light of all of it. For example, when a lady approached us with a tower of books, instead of staying 'No, I'm not interested', he'd respond with 'sorry love, I can't read'.
Laughing all the way back to my hotel, I got changed and went out to meet up with Mark and another couple we had met on our trip. We all did the very westerner thing and choose a buffet pizza dinner as supposed to some local Pho, and then headed for some drinks. Mark recommened a place he had seen earlier and with some hesitation me and the couple decided to trust his advice and follow. We were not dissapointed. He took us to a rodeo-style American bar that was full of locals and ladies dressed as cow girls. A few ex-pats lurked in the corner, buying the waitresses drinks and eyeing them up and down, but it was mainly for the unlikely rock crowd that inhabited HCM. What was more is that instead of some kind of cheesey country music, we were greeted with a Axl Rose impersonated with long hair, bandana and ripped jeans. For a minute a genuinely thought it was THE Axl Rose, but on closer inspection realised it was in fact a local. He was one part of a 7+ member band called The Bad, The Ugly and they were bloody fantastic. Nearly all took it in turn rocking out to a classic and they all had voices to match. Although we ended up paying a fortune for our drinks, the free entertainment was well worth it!
My 24 hours in Ho Chi Minh were far too short, but I loved every second.

 

Rush hour in HCMC

Nha Trang: time to get a move on

Nursing a sore head, I spent the next morning by the pool in my hotel before getting on my first ever night bus. A bizarre concept, but necessary in Vietnam as it is longer than the state of California and covers almost 1000miles of coastline. The night bus reminded me a lot like the one taken in Harry Potter, and the drivers are just as bad. With their hand firmly pressed on the horn, they weave in and out of the traffic at great speed determined to keep us awake. It is, however, a good chance to meet people, as you can all whinge about the cramped beds and crappy driver. Eventually drifiting off I awoke as we entered the city of Nha Trang.

It is a beach resort considered to have one of the best strips of coastline in the whole of Vietnam. It is overpriced and a lot of the natural beauty has been concealed by the towering guest houses and resort complexes. However, like everywhere I have visited, if you delve deeper, there is a great deal to find.

All the people I met in Hoi An recommended I stay in the Backpackers House so I headed down the road at 7am until I found it, set back from the main strip of bars. Paying $7 for my dorm room, I checked in and stored my belongings before heading out again.

Set on the beach just a short walk from my guesthouse is the Louisiane brewery. It is a very fancy bar/restaurant with a pool and loungers. I hired one for the day, chilled by the pool and read my book. Finally having time to relax, my mind started to reflect on the last few weeks. I had managed to achieve so much. Although tiring, it was very rewarding and finally I could take the weight of my feet. Well, so I thought. It suddenly dawned on me that I only had 12 days left to do the rest of Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand...Crap! A rethink to my plans was required. Digging through my bag to find my Lonely Plan, I started to realise that I needed to get a move on if I wanted to see everything I had planned on seeing. After scribbling down a brief itinerary, I hired a bike and headed out of town to visit the Po Nagar Cham Towers and Pagoda.

The towers were built in the Champa era, when Cambodia controlled southern Vietnam. The towers are Hindu temples perched on top of a hill, providing great views of the fishing villages and Cai river below. The view is certainly worth the small entrance fee and the air-con museum is a bonus. The towers themselves are quite demur but charming.  They each represent a different deity although the predominant theme is that of fertility. Lingas, a phallic symbol for the worship of Shiva, are visible both inside and out of the towers. At one point there was a Linga made of precious metal, housed in the tallest tower of 28m, but apparently pirates ran off with it. Each tower is intricately carved on the exterior with a plain vaulted interior, smelling heavily of incense.

I spent a good hour wondering around the sight but the intense heat was getting a bit much. I decided to cycle back into town to visit the Pagoda, but got horrendously lost. Unfortunately my internal compass and spatial awareness skills have somewhat deteriorated since traveling. I somehow ended in a village, far away from Nha Trang and had to back track for about half an hour until I finally got my bearings. The blazing heat combined with the lack of water put a real strain on my general functioning and it proved to be a real struggle trying to navigate my way back. Somehow I managed to make it, purchased a massive bottle of water and consumed it within a matter of seconds. Finally feeling human, I somehow decided to put my body through more pain by cycling uphill towards the Pagoda.

The Long Son Pagoda is a Buddhist temple built in the 19th century. It is of fairly modest design, with the entrance and roofs adorned with mosaic dragons constructed of glass and ceramic tile. However, if you look skywards, you are taken aback by the monstrous white Buddha, sitting atop of a mountain. One is compelled to climb the steps to take a look but one should be forewarned, it is bloody steep! Again, admist the midday heat, I endured the pain I was self-inflicting on my burnt and tired body to reach the summit. And boy was it worth it. Half way up I was greeted by a reclining Buddha hidden from the view below due to a modest garden bed and only accessible through a little metal gate set away from the main path. It expanded some 25 feet and was beautifully restored and maintained (during the Vietnam war, a lot of the Pagoda and Buddhas had incurred severe structural damage). Ascending a dozen or so more steps, I was greeted by a monk sitting beneath a rather large gong, which was struck every few minutes. I am not quite sure of the symbolism, but the noise that reverberated was peacefully dispersed and left me feeling rather reflective. Finally reaching the top, the gleaming white Buddha towered down from above. A further 30+ steps had to be climbed to see it close up but the heat was too much for me by this point and I admitted defeat. The view from where I stood was sufficient enough. The statue is 24m high and represents Gautama himself. Sat atop of a lotus flower and surrounded by Arhats (a buddhist practitioner who has realized a certain stage of attainment), the deity is the true founder of Buddhism.

Finally returning to my hostel, 5 hours after I had left, I decided to book myself on another overnight bus to Ho Chi Minh. I really wanted to stay but knew I would only get drunk and awake with a hangover yet again. Unfortunately I discovered that all the people I had met in Hoi An were staying in the same room as me. I also met two really nice Aussies who took me out for a drink before I caught the night bus. Working on such a tight time frame is not advisable!

Hoi An, a hidden gem

Not long after returning to Hanoi, I hopped on an overnight train with Mark heading for Hoi An. The place is renowned for its tailoring and virtually every shop has the facilities to fashion you that top you'd always longed for, those shoes that you just had to have, or that bikini that got away. When I arrived I was slightly overwhelmed by this central focus, and underwhelmed by the cultural aspect.

On closer inspection, I uncovered a french inspired town on the banks of the Thu Bon. I struggled to find lodgings initially as most were over-priced or well hidden. After sweating it out with my backpack on, I decided to ask two girls sitting in cafe if they recommended anywhere. Pointing to the hotel just 5 doors down, I checked into my more-than-satisfactory room with added benefit of a TV. After catching my breath, I headed back to meet up with the girls and explored the town.

I headed to bed early as I had a 4.45am start the next day. Settling in at 9pm, I watched Harry Potter, loving every minute of it! I think it was a kind a home comfort, that I had been missing for the past 3 weeks. In the morning, I headed to My Son, an ancient Hindu ruin set in beautiful native jungle. We were the only group there and got to watch the sun rise from behind the site. Two German guys, Marco and Michael, mentioned there was good snorkeling to be found not too far from Hoi An on Cam Island. Taking there advice, I booked myself on a trip for the next day.

Another early start, I dragged myself out of bed and onto another mini-bus. Soon realising I was the only foreign tourist, I was wondering whether I should have ignored the Germans. My (personal) tour guide didn't speak the best English, but he was always smiling and very accommodating. He should me round the beautiful Island, before taking a boat to the snorkel sight. The water was teaming with jelly fish and unfortunately I didn't manage to see many fish, other than a few angel fish. Yet it was a pleasant swim nonetheless. The afternoon was spent on a deserted Island. With my headphones in, I slowly drifted off to sleep... fully exposed to the midday sun. I awoke feeling crisp. I had definitely burnt my formerly pasty skin. The effects weren't apparent immediately but that feeling, of tort and tingly skin, was growing by the minute. Trying to act like I was not a dumb tourist, I sat down with my Vietnamese tourists for a banquet of rice, vegetables and freshly caught fish. Not wanting to offend, and also not knowing the word for Vegan in Vietnamese, I quite easily managed to eat half a cam fish (about the size of a rat... I don't have many fish to compare with) and squid. Both were pleasant but I can't say I've been converted. 

Returning back to the mainland, my tour guide presented me with a gift; a small red lantern, typical of Vietnam. He wished me good luck, happiness and safe travels and then escorted me back to the minibus. Two long days and early nights had taken there toll, but I wanted to make the most of my last evening in Hoi An. I arranged to meet up with Mark and headed to the Before and Now bar. 

While I was waiting, I sat at the bar and introduced myself to two guys [whose names escape me], a British cameraman (currently working on Top Gear) who was on his honeymoon but decided to continue travelling once his wife returned home (Will, don't get any ideas!) and a Kiwi who was formerly an investment banker in the UK. With lots of disposable income, the guys were more than happy to ply me with drinks. Managing to get rather hammered, I tried to compose myself when Mark turned up with 4 of his mates from back home. We all had a few more drinks, and a lot more laughs, before calling it a night.

Ha Long Bay

After hearing about the potentially horrendous 30 hour bus journey from Laos to Hanoi, I decided to bypass my morals and book a flight. It took less than an hour and I managed to meet an American guy called Mark who was staying in the same hostel as me. We both shared a minibus and arrived in the center a short while later. Unfortunately the driver took us to the old Hanoi backpackers so we had to carry all our luggage through the bustling streets for 15 minutes till we arrived at the right place. It turned out to be a good thing as we had the chance to explore the city.


Mopeds are the main form of transport in Hanoi as the streets are narrow and it is cheaper to buy and run a moped. The roads were all flying the Vietnam flag and red banners were everywhere. The election of a new president was happening that week so the banners held some relevance towards it. Unfortunately I can't read Vietnamese so couldn't tell you what they said.

As soon as we checked in, me and Mark booked our Ha Long Bay trip and set out the next morning. There were about 26 people on our boat, predominantly British or American. Our tour leader was also a Brit and had just become a guide a few weeks previous. After some introductions, we set out from the bay. Now I don't remember much of what followed as there was a lot of drinking games involved, but I think I had a good night. Everyone seemed to think so the next day. Nursing a hangover, we set out for Castaway Island (the Island where the film was set).

For all those that don't know, Ha Long Bay (meaning 'Descending Dragon') is a UNESCO site in the South China Sea. It consists of thousands of Islands,  many of which are inaccesable due to dense jungle and sheer rock faces. According to UNESCO there are 1969 islands (coincidentally, also the year Ho Chi Minh died), but our local guide believed there to be closer to 3000. Covering over 1500Km, you have to travel maybe 4 hours by boat to reach the final islands. The peripheries are also home to floating villages who are solely dependent on the sea and never venture to the mainland. We didn't have the privilege to make it out that far but we were still able to see a few floating villages. Unfortunately, these are essentially superficial and the ladies there, nicknamed the 'buy something' people, try to sell you drinks and paraphernalia from their boats.

Just before we arrived at our island, we visited a cave contained within an island via kayak. It was set in a beautiful cove and deep within you could see stalactites and bats. From there we took the short journey to our private paradise. Basic amenities were nestled amongst the trees whilst our beach overlooked the surrounding islands. It was surene and surreal. We all settled in and played Volleyball, Cricket and ball games in the water. In groups, we all went out on the water to have a go at wake-boarding. It was loads of fun but I am not going to call myself a master just yet.

After, Mark, two girls and I decided to go kayaking for sunset. Paddling far from the island, we came across a secluded cove surrounded by forested islands on all sides. Mark and I ventured as far as we could until we reached the cliff face. The sun shortly set behind the islands and I managed to take a few shots on my waterproof camera. I hope they develop as it has it was the most beautiful sunset I have ever laid witness to.

After dinner more drinking games commenced and then it was into the sea we went. Many choose the naked option but I decided to stay in my bikini (a wise choice I may add. God knows what lurks in the sea at night). Swimming out into the darker depths, the water came alive in a sea of green. Ultraviolet plankton glimmered in the moonlight; like a scene from Avatar. I found this highly fascinating and spent a considerable amount of time transfixed on their iridescent beauty. A perfect end to a perfect day.