Kanchanaburi a peaceful town that was once hell on earth (day 1)

12 hours spent carting my bags on and of buses, numerous security checks and a hellish walk from the Cambodian-Thai border, my feet finally touched down in Bangkok. Feeling more confident this time round, I had a much better nights sleep in this metropolis. I stayed in Green House, on the road parallel to Koh San. It was a far more chilled atmosphere and the free music made my day. A sound nights sleep.
Another bus, another trip. This time I just took my small backpack and left my big one at my hostel. I only planned to be gone for four days so brought just the essentials.

One place that I had been recommended to visit on numerous occasions, was the small, unassuming town of Kanchanaburi. Just a few hours outside of Bangkok, it is central Thailand’s equivalent to Chiang Mai. The river Kwai provides the water source for the lush vegetation shrouding this quite town. Fields of flowers and rolling hills gently caress the banks to the west of the city whilst the north lays in shadow of its mountainous ridge. It lies in the valley of this varied topography, creating a cool retreat that is far-removed from its intoxicating neighbour.

I was immediately taken aback by the views and my quaint little bungalow perched on the banks of the river Kwai made it that much more special. I had to go explore! Dumping most of the contents of my bag, I grabbed a map, hired a bike and head for the centre of town. The distance was longer than anticipated so contemplated relocating the following day... but I would think about that later. I had a wicked tofu curry cooked by this crazy lesbian woman who kept calling me hot. I found it highly amusing and rolled with it. She gave me some great advise on places to visit and drew a route for me on my map. Thanking her, I set off. Cycling for an hour, in the midday heat, was quite a challenge. There was a lot of steep hills and windy roads but it was made all worthwhile when I reached Wat with a name so complex I don't remember its name. It seemed almost like a graveyard for Buddhist statues no longer in use. There was a plethora of different sizes and shapes, some carved from stones, others made from more synthetic materials. All were elaborate and all were beautiful. There were several pagodas placed on an artificial pond, all connected by bamboo walkways. A few women were sat chatting and a few monks could be seen wondering around the premises contemplating life. I was the only tourist and I loved it. I wondered around and kept discovering statues hidden amongst trees or behind others. Just before leaving, a strange sound beckoned me. I walked over to find peacocks, deer and a toucan all in cages. They looked well looked after although the cages were definitely too small. I spent some time there talking to the deer... yes, this is totally normal! 

Cycling back to town, I passed another temple set atop a hill. Unfortunately it was shut as it was a Sunday but it was a nice walk nonetheless. Stopping on the way back to take photos, I thoroughly enjoyed the break from the city. The air is cleaner, the humidity is virtually unnoticeable and the varied landscape is something I was craving. I am definitely a country girl at heart. 

Shortly past the temple was the Chungkai War Memorial, commemorating all those who lost their lives as POWs (prisoners of war). My great great uncle was one of them! I paid my respects, slowly pacing up and down the endless rows of headstones. It was chilling and emotional.

Several hours after leaving, I made it back to town. Thoroughly exhausted and sweating profusely, I somehow decided to go visit the museum. The Thai-Burma railway museum was opened only a few years ago as it has taken so long to gather information about the brutal and painstaking construction of the train line. 

The railway was built during the height of Japans power. They were attacking the pacific left, right and center and now attempting to conquer China. Their conquest was relentless. 

The Straight of Malacca and the Andaman Sea, originally used to transport troops and equipment to Burma (invaded by Japan not long before)  was becoming too risky. So, with an aim of taking hold of India, Japan began building the Thai-Burma railway at the height of the second world war. The British empire had plans to build this railway years before the war but halted further development as it was considered to risky. The mountainous regions west of Kanchanaburi were considered impenetrable. Nonetheless, Japan's corruption and madness took none of this into consideration. Utilising POWs captured from the pacific, they were set to work on the railway. Working 18 hour days, seven days a week, with little food and unsanitary conditions, the situation was worse than hell. Many contracted malaria or cholera and malnutrition was commonplace. The museum has many photos that were captured at the time and they make for upsetting viewing. Two skeletal men stand outside an infirmary. They are weak and broken. The doctors consider them fit for work! A statue is placed in the centre of the lower gallery. Two men with malaria carry a man with cholera. The men are limp and tired. The man they are holding has his trousers by his ankles. They died shortly after. 

It is a truly harrowing experience, costing thousands of lives (over 100,000) and endless bloodshed. It took just one year two complete and almost two to destroy. At the end of world war II, in 1945, the bridge over the river Kwai was succesfully bombed.

Considered fit to work!