Anti-counterfeiting Trade Agreement

Goodbye freedom: ACTA

Once again we look to trade to solve the world's problems. If anybody read my article on Monsanto then I am sure you can see how ludicrous the whole situation is.

Want to help retain our freedom? Online activist Avaaz is one of my most frequented sites. They strive for justice through petitions and campaigning, giving a voice to all those crying out to end injustice. In a world of 7bn, we can too often dwell on our insignificance. This has to change.

Our attitude of 'but how can one person make a difference' needs to be abolished! This site shows that an individual action can lead to a global shift. Jump on board the band wagon guys, making a difference feels good!!

A terrifying tale... the Tesco Takeover.

When I left for my travels, my anxiety and sense of entrapment  had reached an all time high. Feeling worthless and lost in a country of mistaken identities, an almighty bang rang long and loud as my bubble of 'peace, love and happiness' had been burst for the last time. 


Naive some may say. 


I considered it hopeful. I was hopeful for change. Hopeful for a shift.


Returning 6 months later, my faith in Britain had been miraculously restored. Having met so many people who were seeking the change they wished to see in the world, I came home positive of a similar response. Up sticking to Bristol my hope became reality. A cohesive community that actively works to keep it local and encourages diversity, this metropolis shares my views and keeps me motivated in my ongoing battle for change.


Yet I am still left with an undercurrent of corruption as I see the Asian tiger rear its head. Now I am not referring to China here but instead the almighty beast that is Tesco. Tesco epitomises capitalism and a loss in the values that so many of us are trying so desperately to regain. 


Britain is no longer Great in the original sense of the word. Dwindling down to a rather pitiful blip in the global economy our power of 'reigning supreme' is but an afterthought in the history books. Having sold our soul to the multinationals and accepting defeat, many have succumbed to the mindless, sedentary squaller which capitalism has inadvertently created.


As I have previously mentioned in blogs past, many of us escape our country in order to reconnect to the self. Too frequently are we bombarded with advertisement and societal pressure to be something that was fabricated out of our consumer culture. Absorbed into these ideals many have lose sight of instinctive habits and the intuition that has made so many philosophers before us Great. 

So Tesco...


Our detachment from Gaia and feeling of disdain, as I hope to explain, can be told through terrifying tale of Tesco's...


Intensification: Farming is the lifeblood for which we are lost without. But ever since the 17th century our practises have been altered and manipulated to feed our fury. As a result, our rural lands and traditional values have become all but extinct. Increased buying power that has jeopardised centuries of farming, Tesco has pushed many farmers to the 'brink of bankruptcy' according to a 2005 FoE report. Further to this, Compassion in World Farming (CIWF) states that Tesco consistently pays suppliers nearly 4% below the average price paid by other retailers. 


Fact: Tesco finished in 5th place (out of 8) in the 2007-08 survey by CIWF, finding over 80% of chicken meat sold by Tesco to be from intensively reared fast-growing breeds. 


Globalisation: Tesco's investment overseas is relentless. But like many international brands, the practises they preach on their home turf is not upheld in the international market. Often paying workers wages that keep them in poverty, there is scant regard to their health and safety of employees. When I was in SE Asia it came as a shock to find palm oil in Cadbury's. 


100% Malaysian beef? I highly doubt it McDonalds. 


In the all too familiar Greenwash employed to cover their arses, companies portray an ethical concern to satisfy Corporate Social Responsibility.


Fact: Rankings of top companies in 2004 named Tesco as one of the worst offenders on social and environmental issues and heavily criticised its CSR report for being incomplete and inadequately verified (Accountability/CSR Network (2004) The Accountability Rating)


Exploitation: We need to exist as a self-sustaining global entity in order to maintain harmony in nature. Recognising the importance of individuality and inter-connectedness, community is a basic human need. Look to the wild and we see that community allows for protection, cooperation and sustainability. A breakdown of this norm and chaos ensues. Flip back to today and what do you see? 


Fact: Over-exploitation and land-use change are the biggest causes of species extinction (Millennium Assesment).


With Tesco monopolising the high-street, our ability to remain as unified being becomes somewhat limited. The ongoing battle in Bristol over Tesco's takeover of the high-street is but one example. Bristol prides itself on innovation and independence but the plight of the community to upheld this has fallen on deaf ears. Although 93% of Stokes Croft opposed the new Tesco, our loss of influence in the hierarchy of governance leaves us more ostracised than ever.


 Fact: Every day a new Tesco Express opens it's doors. 


Power: 'Power corrupts, Absolute power corrupts absolutely'. Have we not learnt anything from our forefathers? Land grabs are one of the biggest problems facing the developing world. With weak governance and lack of investment in the past,  Africa is particularly at risk. China is buying up land in the remaining fertile lands of Africa to help feed it's own population! Plundering local businesses and buying products from far reaching corners of the globe to compete with the low costs that local produces try to encourage, Tesco is a prime example of how warped the current system is. 


With no due care to the environment, Tesco's are also a major supplier of Palm oil-laden products. They may be a member of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil but there commitment still remains poor.  


Fact: Deforestation which causes 20 percent of global emissions and planting of palm oil on cleared lowland peat forests in places such as Indonesia releases  methane gas which has much more GWP than CO2.


In January, Tesco's market share dipped below 30% for the first time since 2005. Chief executive, Philip Clarke, admitted that Tesco had deep, "long-standing business issues" to address. Could investment in areas in which you are not welcome be the issue?

GROW 
As Oxfam's GROW campaign enters it's second year I will be working my preverbial socks off to help empower local farmers, spread awareness of the global issues we face and provide local solutions for you all, in order to make the steps towards a future that is sustainable. Stay tuned for updates!


Fancy a chuckle...
Been saving those Tesco clubcard points have we? Well pay a visit to the online shop and spend those points on an Oxfam gift to 'feed a family'. O the irony. 

A homage to Wildlife Photographers

I recently visited the Bristol museum to take a peak at the 2011 Wildlife Photographer of the Year Awards. I was overwhelmed by the captivating imagery, harrowing landscapes and sheer beauty of what was on offer. From dancing birds to stark seascapes, I highly recommend a visit.

Feeling inspired, I have tracked down a few of my favourite wildlife photos to share with you. Enjoy x

Jordi Chias Pujol

A winner from the 2010 WFoY.

Daniel Beltra: Still Life in Oil

One of the winners from this years WFoY. Daniel is a photography for Greenpeace an took this image in the aftermath of BP oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico.

 Vier Pfoten/Four Paws/Rex

This mother orangutan and her baby were saved by the animal charity Four Paws from people who are paid to kill them. There are allegations that many palm oil companies in the area of Borneo pay rewards of up to 1m Indonesian rupiah (about £70) for each ape killed.

Julia Cumbes/AP

More than 110 common dolphins have been stranded on Cape Cod shores in the last week.

Divine Presence; Ole C Salomonsen

'The greatness of a nation & its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated' - Gandhi

These photos are so inspiring. Gandhi is one of my role models. Please check out the rest by following the link x

Photograph: Dibyangshu Sarkar/AFP/Getty Images

Permaculture: planting your way to a sustainable future.

An article I wrote in Bali:

Considered by many as the number one tourist destination; Bali in the midst of an ecological crisis. With tourism reaching its highest since the bombings of 2002, environmental terrorism has occurred, and it’s taking no prisoners.

Rubbish clogs the arteries of this beautiful haven and a toxic fume, from the daily ritual of burning of plastic, pollutes the lungs. Its belly is grumbling and its mouth dry as its rice paddies are flattened and its waters drained for hotels. The tourist mob has constricted the heart of this once peaceful soul. Out of ignorance - whilst holes are burning in the pockets of the government - the residents are suffering.

The balance of man and nature is no longer harmonious. Barbaric dogs have become the dictator in this corrupt system that shoots and imprisons rare birds, poisons aquatic life and tortures the land due to misuse. Balinese are unaware of the damage they are causing, but the problem is only heightened by external influence.

Many see Bali as a place of tranquility, offering a spiritual journey for all those that seek it. But in reality, it is a place of consumption, lavish retreats and new-age thinking that is devoid of the traditions of Hindu culture. The tenets are grounded in connection with the Gods, the Earth and the Spirit and for millennia it has been an ideal. But then, in the 20th century, project globalization was initiated.

With it came the ‘green revolution’, which, in the 1973 brought chemicals and crops set to ‘save’ the third world from poverty. What actually happened was a breakdown of norms and a dependency on aid. Chemical companies became tyrants, spreading their seeds and spraying their chemicals which were destructive and expensive. Within a few short years it was too late to reverse the damage caused to the land by foreign strains, polluting pesticides and harmful herbicides.

Intensive farming systems instead of varied extensive farms now predominate in Bali. Land has become essentially unusable in some areas and it is only set to get worse under current conditions. The desire for more imported food, often due to western demands, is also straining this vulnerable system and something needs to happen in order to prevent disaster.

One way to avert this unfolding crisis is to embrace the Supa-farmer project inspired by Steve Cran from Green Warrior Permaculture (GWP). The project reintroduces old style farming with a modern twist as it actively encourages training and exponential growth. Supa-farmers will become role models for other farmers who will acquire the tools (and not in the literal sense) to inspire.

What is a supa-farmer?
Farming is a necessity and a way of life. It is the life blood of all societies but it is under threat from natural disasters, climate change and big business. The Supa-farmers project, trains and empowers all who work on the land, creating unified solutions to degraded farmland and societies. It is being used to instill traditional techniques and innovative technologies for maximum profit and sustainability. Working with nature, rather than against it, crops are changed to suit the land. Farmers are first trained in a System of Rice Intensification (SRI) and Low External Input Agriculture (LEISA).

Subac farmers, hard at work.

These farmers undertake a contract with Green Warrior Permaculture for their first harvest, at the same price they received before. They agree to save a minimum of 30% of rice for future planting, as to sustain high yields, and agree to be retrained through regular workshops. These workshops will generate feedback, allowing farmers, volunteers and interns to suggest new techniques and ideas. They will also keep farmers enthused and with the assistance of a Balinese LEISA extension officer, the farmer will agree to train other farmers.

LEISA reduces the need for harmful chemicals and instead encourages the use of beneficial crops suited to the conditions of the land. Local varieties of plants (from open-pollinated organic seed) are encouraged and farmers are given training of how to grow them. Instead of monoculture systems (the planting of a single crop), polycultures will be encouraged to prevent pests and provide a diverse agricultural system. The results will
encourage other farmers to diversify and thus create community involvement.

Organic red rice

SRI is a new way of rice farming replacing hybrid seeds with nutritious, heritage red rice. Rice requires intense amounts of clean water, but climate change and excess water usage from hotels (etc) reduce the amount available. With the cost of farming is increasing the price of harvest has become stagnant. SRI uses organic methods in an ecological setting, incorporating ducks, fish and nitrogen-fixing azolla. Each component works in harmony to enhance nutrients and provide biological pest control. Rice intensification systems can yield twice as much as conventional rice cultivation whilst requiring a tenth of the seed stock and one fifth of the water use.

Ducks doing the hard work.

Permaculture
LEISA and SRI systems fall under the term ‘Permaculture’. It is a way of realigning with nature, by incorporating ecological principles into food production. With animism playing such a strong role in Balinese culture, it pays homage to mother earth by respecting her land, caring for it and reaping its rewards. Starting local (i.e. ones back garden), permaculture radiates out to the farm and community level. In time the forests,
the valleys and the whole country can create an organic system. It is small steps taken to stimulate widespread change and it can be implemented all over the world. Think of where you live. What trees are growing nearby? Can they be used for food? If not, why? People complain about the inability to provide enough food for the planet, but if we utilized available space with an ecologically conscious mind, then great things can
happen.

Organic farming methods and diversification, encouraged by LEISA and SRI, can be used to triple the wages of local farmers, giving them the power to control their land and not succumb to the corporations trying to buy it out. Locally, people can grow their own and supplement their supply with food from the farmer. Thus, once-impoverished communities can become prosperous and empowered, free from the ties of foreign aid. Cooperation and comradory are key but the foundations have been set.

Care for the earth, care for the people, share the surplus is what permaculture teaches. And I, as well as those who came before me, have truly been cared for. I am proud to say I am a Green Warrior! I have been inspired by the potential of permaculture and am excited to watch things unfold. Once skeptical, I am now positive about the future. Projects like this are sprouting up everywhere, even in the UK where I reside, but many are still in their germination stage. If you want to take action, then seek out the change in your own home, community or neighborhood. Dig out that hoe in your garden shed and get digging. Nothing is more rewarding than the fruits of your labour. The seeds have been sewn and I can’t wait to see them flourish.

Wormery/veg Vesuvius, mulch and our tree terrace. 

Thank you to Justin Grothe for his contribution and Steve Cran, Beck Sweetman and Lindsay Houska for being my mentors and friends x

Malaysia: The Westernised West

Peninsula Malaysia is a beautiful melting pot of cultures. Steeped in colonial history and shrouded in ancient forest, this land mass offers a plethora of opportunities. Yet the pattern that was oh so repetitive during my travels reaches its climax on the western frontier of Malaysia. The capitalist culture has ploughed it's way through valley, hill, mountain. It holds no bounds in a country who's pockets are bulging but poor are suffering.

A parallel universe to the one we are accustom. Buildings loom heavy as they tower above. The feeling of insignificance ever more asserting. Pollution. Violence. Unrest. Corruption. It is all too familiar.

Kuala Lumpur. An architectural playground. A rich mans dream. The epitome of wealth in a continent that is so desperate to survive. A laugh in the face of its inhabitants. The Petronas towers. An infamous landmark but a blatant kick in the teeth. A building that defines our pursuit of progress. Our greed and gluttony. The oil. Black treacle seeps from the pours of this country, one that has learnt nothing from our failings.

The intoxicating capital draws you in and then never lets you go. I endured almost a week in KL as I feel ill near the end of my trip. I tried to find the beauty but there was none. The only nature to see was in the fabricated amusements that occupied the downtown. A bird park and butterfly farm could be visited for a premium or you could see the stars if you handed over your ringget. Stars are no longer visible in KL. Light pollution and car fumes create an impenetrable layer in the night sky.

The towns of Melacca and Georgetown provide brief amusement away from the city but even these colonial areas have fallen to the intrigue of consumerism. Shopping malls and fast food vendors are creeping their way in, slowly chocking the town with tourists. Nature is non-existent. Amusement can only be purchased. Our 'happiness' has a price tag.

Borneo: A beautiful disaster.

My Idol, Sir David Attenborough, first grabbed my attention in 2001 after the Blue Planet documentary series. Ever since I have been absorbed by the beautiful camera work and dulcet tones so iconic to the programmes. Digging through the archives, I remember watching the Secret Life of Plants. Seeing both an insectivorous plant (pitcher) and one measuring around 2 meters (raflessia) for the first time, I was left with my jaw hanging and my eyes transfixed. I craved to encounter these phenomenons and as such, Borneo shot to the top of my bucket list.

I remember butterflies in my stomach as a boarded my flight from the Philippines. I wonder what species I will encounter? Will Borneo be what I had imagined? Short answer: No.

Sabah. Capital Kota Kinabalu. Population c. 500,000. Not what you would expect from primative Borneo right? Well times have changed. Being part of Malaysia, one of the fastest growing economies, the pristine preconceptions I had envisioned soon faded. A landscape dominated by concrete and high-rises, it didn't set of to a good start.

Venturing into the interior, there was a glimmer of hope as shades of green emerged as I approached the National Park, but the major species... was palm. Palm oil is THE biggest cause of deforestation. Our insatiable appetite for oil and convenience food has driven species to the brink and jeopardised the livelihoods of local Borneans.

I remember, vividly, a late nigh conversation I had with a local tribesmen over beer. I had visited the Kinibatangan river to see some of Borneo's famous flora and fauna. Unfortunately the oily film clogging the watercourse (effluent (POME) from the interlaced palm oil plantations that lined the river banks), erosion on the banks and signs of eutrophication are my long lasting memories. I discussed my discomfort and concern to this man who happened to be our 'tour guide' if you will. He mentioned that the government of Malaysia receives very little money from tourism. Locals are able to keep all the profits, which is a bonus, but this gives Malaysia no incentive to preserve its wildlife. Considering development as help not a hindrance, I almost fell of my chair when the man responded:


'To us, buildings are more beautiful than nature'

                                                      Palm oil plantation on the Kinibatangan

Borneo is synonymous with endemism and rarity. Beauty and mystery. A utopia, where jungle is thick, water is deep and sky is infinite. But each year this bubble is burst as more forest is cleared and more roads are paved to allow for the trucks to penetrate the forests.

I am a positive person, but the situation in Borneo in bleak. Sabah and Sarawak still have many places that remained untouched but even the ignorant tourists want to pay top dollar to visit communities that should be left alone. There needs to be a balance between tourism and exploitation. Many people I met in Borneo went to harder to reach places that had little impact with the outside world and said their experience was unforgettable. Yet these trips cost $100s. When did people begin to cash in on nature?? O yea, since the invention of money.

It seems conflicting. But I am often at odds with my own conclusions. I went to Borneo to see untouched wilderness, but who doesn't these days. I want to travel the world, but more and more are doing so. The chance to do something someone else hasn't brings out our competitive nature. I have a somewhat compulsion to seek out the unique and challenging experiences and my generation is also craving this desire. But with this we must bare the consequence as we too are to blame for the destruction of nature.

We escape our reality as we are often dissatisfied, but as our western desires and gluttonous wants start to rub of on the east, the world we try to escape rears its head as soon as we arrive. From western food, to modern transport and an absurd need for fashion, my journey through SE Asia is starting to generate a pattern upon reflection.

Yes, Asia is beautiful. Yes, I would move there in a heart beat. And, yes the people you meet will be with you a lifetime. But I can't help but think that this will all be gone within a few decades. But what is the solution when we seek to see the last remaining tiger or the only tree remaining in the forest? What came first, tourists or tourism? Consumerism or consumption?

I hope someone has the answers as I am struggling. I think if we travel light and leave only footprints than we can live a sustained and wonderful life. Not only will we protect nature, but we will protect ourselves. That feeling you get, that anxious one, the one that makes you want to flee to the rest of the world. Part of it may be inquisition. But most of it will be dissatisfaction. Dissatisfaction from life. Dissatisfaction from yourself. I'll let you sleep on that one.

Nostaligic notetaking

Something I wrote during a rather long bus ride...

Travelling has allowed for many a day of reflection. Looking out of the window of our bus, the 4th in four days, I am reminded of all those long family car journeys. At the time, those trips seemed endless. Although never lasting more than a few hours, me and my sister would bicker and brawl. Inevitably one would arrive in tears, possible missing a tuft of hair (needless to say the baulding child was me more often than not with Hayley making it out unscathed). Yet, despite all the 'are we there yet[s]?' and 'if you don't shut up I will turn this car round' comments, there were moments in these journeys where I found great peace and satisfaction by sitting in silence, peering out of the back seat window, fixated on the life outside of our silver Passat. It is a supposedly insignificant memory, one that everyone has experienced but few dwell on. Yet, for me, they were some of my happiest moments, away from the bickering and away from consumptive distractions, I would become immersed in my thoughts. Questions would arise such as the 'why are the sky blue?' variety, but every now and again moments of genius of an aspiring environmentalist would emerge. But my inquisitive nature, a defining feature that is always with me, often lays dormant.

Today, like many a day in the life of a traveller, I am sat staring out of the window. Another day, another ridiculously long bus journey. But today, unlike most spent in transit, I am feeling relaxed, at-ease and reflective. I am not mindlessly staring, but am actively engaged by the life visible outside the confines of this particularly uncomfortable, excessively-air-coned bus (think wind tunnel in the arctic).
Instead of complaing of the child whining in front, the couple arguing behind, the smell of fried pigs ears coming from my right and the slightly concerning plastic seat coverings (OK, so I complained a little), I find myself gazing out at the Philippino countryside.

Rice paddies create a green smear in the distance, while the road markings strobe white to grey. The clouds dark and heavy, the impending rain about to break. Jeepneys and buses hurry past, struggling to break the speed limit due to their heavy load. A man slumbers under a tree, another urinates against its trunk. Tricycles hopelessly awaiting passengers instead provide shelter and a rather crammed bed for its driver. Tin shacks, sponsered by Malboro or Coca Cola, line the roadside, there to feed the hungry truckers or anyone with a strong stomach.

Crop land becomes marsh-land, marsh-land becomes rivers. Shanty towns surround towns, dead carcasses lining the shop windows. Towns become country again and before long the power lines becomes intertwined and numerous. The concrete jungle of Manila veers its head. Towering above, a boundary, a barrier.. what lies beyond this impenitrable fortress. Shopping malls, SM .. sado-masichism comes to mind. For some, the sick yet rewarding pain for others the pleasure of a consumerist culture.

Rain splatters the pavement. Umbrellas pop open, creating speckles of colour against the grey backdrop.
People walk with purpose, with a need and a frustration not seen in the countryside just a few minutes away.

Buildings grow taller, lights become brighter. A thick smog creeps in as the dirt roads change to paved. Lamp posts, the lines of the metro, car break lights, the hustle and bustle becomes uncomfortably common, seemingly worlds aways from green fields and pasture.

Feable attempt at suburbia, trees scatter the roadside, a poor distraction from the obnoxiously large billboards, promising  you will look like an American teenager if you buy these jeans.
Six malls in 5 minutes, a new record.

The skyscrapers of Metro Manila and the cranes that have become a permanent feature fill the skyline, adding to the unerving feeling of insignificance. Unique and beautiful has become uniform and claustriphobic in a matter of minutes. Green has been replaced by grey and even the weather seems to be in a constant state of glum. Yet in all its shameful glory, a charm still remains.

It buzzes and hums with life. Despiration and despair interlaced with hope and excitement.
A city craving acceptance.
A Desire to explore. To find that redeeming quality in the unconventional beauty.

So... the Philippines

I booked my trip to the Philippines on a bit of a whim really... I decided I needed a break before I ventured into the jungle. It was the best decision I have ever made.

Manila. The name sends shivers down the spine of many. Violence. Gang culture. An over-populated metropolis where beggars roam the streets, prostitutes tout the tourists and men carry guns (it is legal in the Philippines). The images and info I found whilst roaming the web left me feeling rather dubious about my choice. Nonetheless, I left feeling excited about a change of scenery. I arrived during the monsoon season. I have never experienced rain quite like it but even though I was pounded and drenched by the time I made it to my hostel, there was a kind of eery yet magical quality about the power of the storm. Nature is a wonderful thing.

Exploring the sights of the city, I dragged Sinead, Gavin and Geoff out in the rain. A motorised taxi (a pimped out but run down motorbike with side car) followed by a Jeepney (former US military WW11 jeeps) and we were there. The heart of metro Manila. Wading through inches of water and tonnes of rubbish and sewage, we passed many a vendor selling counterfeit goods.

Boarding the metro, me and Sinead in our 'female only carriage', we made it to China town (somewhat disappointing but still a right of passage when visiting any town in Asia). Passing through the arches of China town, we caught sight of a beautifully out-of-place anglican looking church. Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz towered over the central square, dominating the grey sky above. Inside is an Aladdin's cave of statues depicting various saints. Entering during mass, it was rather haunting to see the amount of men and women on their knees praying to the man upstairs.

A few hundred yards away, through the tangled web of streets and bodies, we arrived at a church of a far grander scale. Quiapo church was built by Roman Catholic missionaries (aka 'Franciscans') in the 16th century. A vast cavernous space which seemed rather lifeless in comparison.

Intramuros. Far removed from the typical imagery envisioned when Manila springs to mind, yet one of the most alluring. Although it is now essentially a walled student village, it history is steeped in Spanish influence. The oldest district, it was built during the height of spanish colonialism. White facades, balconies and a unified structure, Intramuros seems at odds with the rough and ready reality of Manila. Finishing the day with a San Miguel, we chilled in a coffee shop whilst, um, 'serenaded' by the singer waiters. They REALLY like their Karaoke.

North Luzon, the most northern region of mainland Manila. A beautiful mountainous landscape famous for its fertile soil and chilly climate. A long way from the capital, the journey to the north is split up by a stop gap in Bagio. A student town set high up in the mountains, it reminds me of the swiss alps in late spring. In keeping with the tacky chalet style digs, most accommodation is suitably kitsch, suitable for all the men and women who love a bit of thigh-slapping and lederhosen. Nonetheless, its hilly charm and penchant for good booze, it helps satisfy the weary traveller.

Sagada. The real gem of the Northern territory. A tiny populous of Philippinos who enjoy the simple things. With limited power, you really get to appreciate the natural beauty that shrouds this village. Caves are vast. There narrow passages and exquisite formations are most alluring. Limestone deposits act as velcro against your feet allowing you to become an amateur spiderman for the day. Spelunking and absailing are all included for the extra adrenaline kick and a generous helping of icy water leaves your skin supple - thats if you can avoid the potential frost bite. Food is tasty, but only for the truly carnivorous. Roast chicken became my staple and any thoughts of my vegan conscious were put on hold. Did you expect me to go hungry? Known for it's hanging coffins, fans of the underworld will get there fix in Sagada. A spooky spectacle.

Palawan. One of the largest islands of the coast of the mainland, but one of the least inhabited. Pristine forest and untouched wilderness makes Palawan the Philippines final frontier. Protected from the monsoons, a ray of sunshine always manages to penetrate the clouds. El Nido (meaning the nest) is a bay of clear blue and sandy yellow. You know those postcards of unspoilt beaches and an almost surreal vibrancy... the place you always expect to find. Well you will find it here. As you feel your heart beat ease and take your first breath of the truly fresh air, you know you have arrived. Beach huts scatter the shore and outriggers stand proud in the shallows. Apart from a few places to eat and the odd house you could easily think you were on your own private island. Mainly hanging with the locals, my experience of the Philippines was excelled to a higher level. With smiles on their faces and beer and guitar in hand, they lead the life that most dream of. Spending the day on many of the islands surrounding the coast and the night on the beach serving drinks, playing music or cooking grouper on the beach barbecue, there is very little to complain about in this little piece of heaven.

New Beginnings

It has been a tough start to the year, and I have had to make some big changes, but things are finally on the up! In a bid to declare my new start I have taken it upon myself to rewrite my previous articles and finish my stories from the far east.

But don't fret, I aim to provide you with compact and evocative snippets of my experiences, not hourly accounts of my time away. I realised I had too much time on my hands in Bali and made you endure some rather lengthy tales.

So here's to new beginnings.

I dedicate this blog to my friends and family who have been my rock and support system of late. Tears have turned to smiles at last. xx

End of July and Lombok

The week that followed the road trip was uneventful in comparison. With Lindsey away, I was left to work by myself. It allowed me to write more for Green Warriors and complete all the small tasks which was quite enjoyable but took a lot of self-motivation.

I spent most evenings at Beck's; laying out a spread of food that was amazing as always. I met one of Becks's friends, Anna, who had just spent a year volunteering on a permaculture project in Bangladesh. She too had studied Environmental Science, and found we had a lot in common. Unfortunately she headed to Lombok the following day, so our encounter was brief.

Anna's departure did inspire me and Beck's to make a trip to Lombok, however, deciding to do another road trip at the weekend. When Lindsey returned she headed straight to the Bike Rental and we got her a moped. I taught her how to ride and in a few days she had it under control. With her new found confidence, she hoped on the bike and headed with us to Lombok.

'Mr corupcy' was waiting at the dock and got us all to hand over driving licenses and registration. Unfortunately Beck's didn't have her license so we had to leave her bike in Bali. We were pretty annoyed but it ended up working out cheaper because we just had to pay per bike rather than per person.

We arrived to Lombok as the sun was setting. The sky was clear, the water calm, the colours hazy and serene. Pale oranges had been brushed across the sky and reflected off the water. It was a sunset unlike that in Bali. More dry and alluring; soft and subtle.

Lombok seems world's apart from Bali, and upon reading a paper by Alfred Russel Wallace, I found out why that was. Writing more than 150 years ago, Wallace found that the flora and fauna present on the islands East of Bali must have once formed part of Australasia, whilst the islands to the West, including Bali itself, where once part of the SEA mainland. Thus, although they are separated by a mere 22 miles of sea, the landscape is rugged, dry and underdeveloped. Driving off the boat, it was like we were in uncharted territory. Bar the port and newly-paved road, the landscape was an endless wave of hills shaded hues of green and brown with trees hardy and sparse. Dusk had fallen and although the air was still hot from the days heat, it was cooling as the coastal winds started to blow ashore.

Driving from the port, we started our journey to Kuta (nothing like the one in Bali!). The map provided by the lonely planet was basic but showed the main roads leading South. We intended to simply drive along a minor road and then on to the coastal road that connects it to Kuta. Unfortunately it wasn't that simple.

Roads in Lombok are mainly primitive and unavigable. The road we had hoped to take wasn't exactly what we would constitute as a road, but more like a gravel pit. Sending us on a detour, we were directed North instead of South. Before realising it, we were half way up the coast in the wrong direction. By this point it was pitch black. Stopping in a petrol station, we asked for directions and finally found out where we needed to go. I hate to say it but the newly built international airport proved to be quite useful as the road that links it to the rest of the island is freshly tarmacked and well signposted. With a little luck, and Beck's use of Bahasa Indonesian, we made it to Kuta an hour later.

We sat down for a well deserved drink and a bit of food, deciding to find accommodation afterward. As the town consisted of only two main roads and there seemed to be very few tourists, we thought finding a place to stay would be easy. Wishful thinking! We spent the next 2 hours trying to find accommodation, asking every place we could find. It was quite fun driving door to door but the novelty soon wore off. Taking pity on us, some locals tried to help but it wasn't until 12.30am that we could finally lay our heads. It turned out pretty well and the room was massive. Within no time, we were sleeping like babies.

After a well deserved lie-in, we headed to a beach along the coast. A small, windy road with beautiful views of forest and villages lead to our first stop: Tanjung A'an beach. We were the first to arrive and surprised as the coastline was stunning. A horseshoe cove of sandstone rocks and hills surrounded the white sandy beach and crystal clear water. There was nothing but us and the sea. We were all so happy that we quickly rushed into the cool water. Taking it all in, we were smiling from ear to ear. We had all be working hard the past few months and knew we truly deserved this weekend away. Before long we were drifting off to sleep, our bodies being battered by the intense heat.

I awoke to the sound of screaming kids. Some locals had arrived in a mini van and were all making there way to our once private beach. It was bizarre to see everyone dive in fully clothed, but you forget that you are in Indonesia; a country with one of the largest populations of muslims. We thought we were a bit overexposed in our bikini's but noone seemed to mind. Instead, the kids found it fascinating and quickly made their way towards us. A man informed me, Linds and Beck's that they were from a small village that had never before seen a white person. We felt famous as the kids congregated round all smiling and looking curious. It was a great moment.

When we started to get hungry, we drove back along the coast and up another poor excuse of a road to get to a restaurant recommended by the guide book. For once the LP provided some good information. We arrived at ''' to find stunning views of the coast below. The food was great, but the view by far exceeded it!

A dirt track led downhill and through paddy fields to reach the next beach. It took an inordinate amount of time as we had to continuously weave to avoid potholes, but it was really fun to drive along and all the stares and smiles made it even more worthwhile. As Lombok is yet to experience the influx of tourists that is seen in Bali, the locals are still intrigued and surprised by westerner's; let alone a group of girls on mopeds!

When we arrived at Mawun beach we were even more awe struck. White sand, clearer skies, bluer water. A picture postcard and, again, deserted. The same routine unfolded and within no time, we were surrounded by intrigued children. We spent most of the afternoon playing with them and taking photos of the beautiful scenery. To top it off, we drove past a street procession on the way back, with people dancing in the street and playing music. We coasted alongside and shared in the energy. It was one of the best days so far!

Heading for drinks and dinner in the evening, we realised that we may have caught a little too much sun - salmon comes to mind. Toddling along, in our most free-flowing clothes, we sat down to some cheap and tasty food and then called it a night. Sun stroke was the likely cause for an early night.

Before we knew it, we were back on the boat to Bali. It was a very short weekend getaway but one I won't forget any time soon.

The following week was my last. I had planned to make the most of it by visiting places I had yet to see, but unfortunately I got Salmonelsis Typhoid! Fever and vomiting was proceeded by a week in bed. It was not the week I had envisioned. Finally recovering enough to say my goodbyes, I had my final meal at Beck's, with Linds, Beck's sister and Dustin. It was really sad to say my goodbyes as I had formed a special bond with all of them. I learnt so much from all of them and they were always receptive and caring towards me. I love them all dearly and miss them so much. I know I will see them again, but not knowing when is a sad realisation. x

MT Batur for sunrise and the epic road trip

5am: Set off from Ubud
Shaundrell, Becks and I set off early in order to catch the sunrise. The air was crisp and cold so choosing to ride in shorts and t-shirt, with only a thin and holey jacket to protect me, probably wasn't the best idea. From Beck's house, it was an easy drive an hour North to Kintamani - the town closest to Batur. We arrived, set up our cameras and waited with eager anticipation. Slowly, minute by minute, the black sky began to fade. Greys replaced blacks and the air started to warm. The sky was clear, the clouds resting in the valleys creating a blanket over lake Batur.

6am: the main event
The sun emerged from behind Batur. Red, orange, pink, blue; the sky burst into colour. The heat warmed our cold bodies and the suns raise broke through, lighting the valley, the mountains and the sky above. It was majestic and surreal and felt as if we were mere observers, looking down from above, observing from the heavens. I have seen a fair few sunrises but this was by far the most beautiful.

7am: Kintamani Market
After a sweet coffee (they like to use condensed milk and sugar), we drove a short way down hill to the local market. It was in full swing and was brimming with life. People were selling fresh produce, live animals, flowers, clothes and breakfast. We made the latter our priority. Keen to try some more Balinese food, I went on a recommendation from Becks and tried a local favourite of black rice, sweetened with palm sugar, fluorescent cakes, naturally dyed pink or green using pandan leaves, fried banana and coconut and sesame balls. Not only had I over indulged, I had also overdosed on sugar. The rice in itself was so sweet that eating anything else just heightened the sugar levels. I left feeling sick, my teeth sensitive and my head buzzing.

8am: Lake Batur and the valley
We left the market and drove somewhat aimlessly past Mt Batur and downhill towards the lake. We didn't really know where we were going, but just decided to try and take the most scenic route home. The road was smooth although the corners and contours were somewhat more of a challenge. The tree-lined road provided much needed shade as the sun was being to rise high in the sky. Cruising along, we kept catching glimpses of the surrounding mountain. Soon we reached open road. The scenery was insane. It reminded a little like death valley, in the sense that the plains seemed infinite and barren but unlike Nevada, Bali's lush and tropical vegetation still prevailed. Semi-arid shrubs and scraggly trees lined our path and every now and again crop fields were visible.

9am: The monstorous mountain and bumpy ride
So we ended up getting a bit lost coming to a dead end - the path simply ceased to exist. Turning around we asked directions in the tiny village. We thought it would be easy to get to the coastal road on the East of Bali by simply driving in that direction. How we were wrong. The only way was up a mountain on roads which only the locals are brave enough to attempt. We had come so far so decided to try our luck.

The road was extremely windy and pot-holed. Full power had to be applied to make it up and I somehow made it, although Beck's had to go back to collect a struggling Shaundrell. The road down was a dirt track traversing through beautiful countryside and small hamlets. We drove for about 2hours through the sand and gravel trying to keep balance. Shaundrell veered off the road a few times and fell from her bike several times. I managed to keep the bike steady but my bike was not playing fair. It broke down 3 or 4 times during the midday heat. Each time I had to put the kick stand up and manually start it. I proved to be completely useless and had to rely on local help. Making it look easy, I drove of rosy cheeked.


12pm: Coastal Crusing
We finally tackled the beast and it was great relief that we pulled over for a drink. I got of the bike feeling weak at the knees.  The sun had got to me a bit but I soon felt better after a sugary 7-up. Returning to my bike, I realised the spring had snapped off the kick stand. I wasn't having much luck with my bike. I tied the stand to the bike with a hair bobble and we set off again along the smooth Eastern coastal road.

1pm: White sand beach and Lunch
Becks said she was going to take us to her favourite beach in Bali. I couldn't wait to finally get of the moped as my bum was numb, my hands sore and my face tingling from the sun. Heading off the main road, it was another bumpy ride on a dirt track towards the beach. Emerging from behind the trees, I could glimpse the white sand and bluer than blue ocean. Becks choose well. Taking off my shoes and burying my feet in the sand was a welcome relief. We ordered some food and then fell asleep for a few hours on some cushioned sun beds. It was one of the best sleeps I've ever had!

4pm: Drive home
Waking to the sounds of the ocean, I felt refreshed and ready to go. After dipping my legs in the water, we set off again for the final ride back to Ubud. At 6pm we finally made it back. We made plans to go out, but instead ordered take-away round Beck's and slept in Steve's super-soft double bed.

Sunday was a day of relaxation. I was feeling slightly crisp and sore so just chilled in a coffee shop, reading my book. I got a second wind in the evening so met Shaudrell for drinks in the Shisha Lounge, ending in Napi Orti, Ubud's version of a Reggae bar.

Shaundrell left for Singapore on the Monday. I only knew her a few days but she really left an impression on me. I was always smiling with her around and know she will share her happiness with everyone else she meets. See you soon xx

Bali: End of June

Once again I am falling behind on my blog. I have been so busy these past two months that I have barely had time to catch my breath. The next three(ish) posts will try to cram in as much as possible about my time in Bali. I hope they will be short and sweet, but going by the length of all my previous posts, I am highly doubtful. So, where to begin

The end of June ended in tears. I said farewell to Justin and Steve in the space of a week. Justin's visa, and money, had run out so he headed back to Aus to save up and return in November. Steve, on the other hand, headed to Ethiopia to help 'train trainers'. His Green Warrior work was so successful in Uganda that he is now a man in high demand, with many organisations asking for his assistance! As he was spending a month there, it was the last time I was to see him... well for this trip anyway.

The following week Steve's friend Simon paid us a visit. We showed him round Ubud and took a trip to the Tellalagan rice terraces just north of Ubud. I drove Simon's moped, and Linds hitched a ride on the back of Chakra's, with Simon driving (the bike is far too heavy for me to control). The terraces seem somewhat out of place, just perched on the roadside but they are a beauty to behold. They cascade down the hillside and rap round, creating a terraced cove. The three of us somehow managed to climb down them towards the river below. Bar the blue sky, all was visible was green. Trickling water could be heard from the irrgating waterfalls

and the odd birds song echoed in the valley. As it was still out of tourist season, we pretty much had the place to ourselves.

The following day we visited Green School. I decided to finally face my fears and rent a moped. I felt a lot more confident.. even to the point of cocky as I decided I could drive the hour out of town, on roads I didn't know, with Linds on the back. Miraculously we made it in one piece. The roads were rather forgiving, although when we entered the road leading up to green school, their condition deteriorated rapidly. Dirt tracks replaced tarmac. The paths narrowed and I had to cross a bridge over a ravine, just wide enough for the moped, several times as we got lost. The lack of signage was proving to be slightly inconvenient. We eventually navigated our way through jungle to the school and made it just in time for the tour. (for more info on Green School, read my earlier post from April(?)).

Trying to make the most of our day, we headed to Goa Gajah after. It translates to Elephant Cave and although the cave is nothing to shout about, the surrounding jungle is. Trees tower above and the river rages below. There were lots of tropical flowers I hadn't seen before and a family compound set amongst rice paddies.

On Friday of the same week, me and Linds went to Rebecca's. We had great food, as always, watched The Hours and met a lovely lady called Shaundrell. From South Carolina, born and raised (sorry, had to add that), she had spent the last 9 months in Australia. She is vivacious, bubbly and slightly mad. I loved her immediately!

The next day Linds left for a week long trip to Jakarta. Me, Becks and Shaundrell had arranged a road trip to Mt Batur for sunrise so set off at 5am. It was set to be one of the best days I had spent on the Island!

Lovina Tour

Rain began to pour. I was outside waiting for a bus at 8.30 on a Saturday, with a hangover! This was not a good start to my weekend. My stomach was churning and my head pounded... this better be a bloody good tour.

The bus finally arrived. I climbed on and sat next to two guys from Germany whilst Lindsey sat in front. Setting off I began to feel better and the clouds began to part. The rain subsided as we approached our first stop , the Family palace. It is entered from a bridge that leads across a lake to an ornate entrance. It oozes traditional Balinese architecture, with its geometrical designs, carved into red brick and stone.  A sign to our left reads:
''During menstruation ladies are strictly not allowed to enter the temple"

We walked through to a courtyard and then round back to explore the other structures. It was set amongst a forest with paths leading down to a river. It was peaceful and a nice start to the day. As soon as we got back into the van, the heavens opened. Good timing!

The Coffee plantation was next on the agenda. Driving past rice fields and small villages, we headed down a country road to the plantation, which also grows galangal, lemongrass, cocunuts and other crops. A lovely woman showed us round and told us about the renowned Civet coffee. Locally known as Kopi Luwak, the coffee is made from coffee cherries which have been eaten and then digested by the Asian Palm Civet. The lady insists it tastes great, but at Rp 40,000 a cup, I am not convinced (plus the fact Linds said it really isn't anything to shout about). Bypassing the over-priced cuppa we sat down to a free tasting of Lemon Tea, Ginseng Coffee, Ginger Tea, Bali coffee and Hot chocolate. I ended up buying the first three as they tasted so good, mainly due to the high sugar content.

Leaving the plantation, we drove through Strawberry hill. Unsuprisingly, farmers grow Strawberries on its slopes and the market town you pass on the decent is scattered with bursts of red and pink from all the punnets lining the vendors displays. Cars lined the streets of our next destination. We arrived at a Temple in Bedugul, set on the Beratan lake. Ulun Danu temple is dedicated to the goddess of the lake, and is famous for Hindu worship. We were very lucky to witness a ceremony when we arrived and it is nothing like you have ever seen. Thousands of people descended on the temple, all dressed in their best Kabaya (lace blouses) and Kamblan (batik waistbands) to pay respect to the god(s). I tried to ask our tour guide what the ceremony was about but unfortunately the language barrier invalidates the response I received. We spent almost an hour just soaking up the ambiance and people watching. It was my favourite part of the day.

After denting a car whilst trying to maneuver out of a parking space, our driver hastily drove us to Git Git Waterfalls. The decent from the roadside down to the falls was quite a challenge for our weary bodies but me and Linds managed to make it, partly due to stopping every 5 minutes to browse the wears of the hawkers lining the steps. We gathered speed as we heard the booming sound of water against rock. Some 35m high, it is protected by a dense forest that caresses the hillside. Just 10 minutes from Singaraja,  it feels like you are far removed from civilisation, well apart from the Chinese tourists and the kids trying to sell you bracelets.

Lunch was spent at Lovina and we were thoroughly unimpressed. The tide was in and the beach non-existent. The town seemed to be just a narrow strip of overpriced restaurants on the sea-front (although we later realised this was simply because our driver took us to the rubbish part) and misunderstanding the restaurant owner, we paid Rp50000 for our meal when we thought it was to cost just Rp15000. Oops.

The hot springs of Banjar was our last stop. It was a great way to relax after a very hard day of sightseeing. The water was more luke-warm and although it is considered to have restorative and healing powers, I found the water to be somewhat slimy, and couldn't help think of all the dead skin cells. Nonetheless, I really enjoyed it as it was mainly used by locals and they were all smiling. The setting was serene, nestled amongst a forested garden and although we were a little rushed, it was a great end to the tour.

Our driver kindly stopped on the way back to let us take photos of the twin lakes of Tamblingan and Buyan although the sunset he promised was somewhat non-existent.

Saying farewell to the driver and its passengers, I stepped off the bus at ARMA. The museum of art and performance is just a stones throw away from where I am living in Ubud. I had heard there was a free Bellydancing show on that evening so I went to check it out. I had arrived just in time and sat for most of the duration. I was so glad to finally catch a show and all the more it was for free! I walked home with a smile on my face. What a productive day for a hangover! I was about to call it a night when I heard an interesting noise coming from the direction of the community centre. Right next toChakra's house, I decided to check it out. Inside there were 50+ locals watching a performance of what I can only describe as stomp. Men in tradtional outfits were doing body percussion and chanting in a hypnotic manner. It was mesmerising. I sat down and watched. They were finishing their performance but I was glad to catch the ending. When I thought I had been performanced out, another group emerged onto the stage. Dressed in japanese martial arts gear, a group of 20-something kids started performing martial arts whilst drumming (I later found out it is called Wadaiko). It was insane. I was so captivated and although the performance lasted over an hour it felt like mere minutes. Returning home feeling exhausted, I was greeted by Chakra, Justin and his friend Evan playing drums and guitar. I retold my tales from my epic day and then headed to bed.

Emotional Upheaval

Starting work on Monday, I was glad to be back to some form of normality. I was excited about the week ahead and spending some quality time with Justin as it was his last full week!

On Tuesday I met up with Lisa, Ellie and Terri on, catching them on their way to Australia. I met them in the afternoon and took them to the Monkey Forest as I hadn't been there yet. It is a reserve for the Balinese long-tailed macaque and houses three sacred temples. Right in the centre of town you are transported to a lost world upon entering. You walk down into a forested valley, with winding paths that lead down to the stream at its heart. Monkeys are running wild, rustling the trees, soaking up the sun and being mischievous. We saw several monkeys getting down and dirty, whilst others were sprawled out along the paths blocking our passage. It was really good fun and a great chance to catch up with the girls. We got to see a couple in traditional dress having there wedding photos taken and had a look around one of the temples. Stopping over the bridge to take photos, I also got attacked by a monkey who had felt a plastic bottle in my bag. Rooting through it, he tossed aside my wallet and retrieved his play toy. I thought it best to stand still. The girls thought it best to take photos.

In the evening I went to look up flights for Will. He told me a few days before that he could no longer afford to come visit me. It broke my heart knowing it wouldn't be till October when I could next see him! I searched for over 2 hours, looking at numerous comparison websites and phoning dozens of travel agencies. After all that effort, I had to conclude that it was just too expensive. I left feeling so low. I had a shit weekend and now I wasn't going to get to see the love of my life for FIVE months. I walked slowly back to my bike. Negative thoughts began to consume me. Why couldn't Will afford to see me? Why did I go to Kuta? Why have I had such a crap week? Walking down the hill to my bike, I thought that at this rate my bike would be stolen too.

Shit! My bike! Bollocks! Where is it?

I broke down in tears. Low and behold, it had been stolen. Why is all this happening? I headed back to THK. Taking me almost half an hour, I returned home to find the place in silence. Justin was asleep and Suha was out. I cried myself to sleep that night.

Feeling very vulnerable and short tempered, a minor remark from Justin made be break down in tears at work. Shaking and short of breath, and went to sit down. I tried to hide my tears but they kept coming. It was uncontrollable. I had been conned out of money (which I may have failed to mention) in Kuta, my Mum was going through a horrible time and I couldn't comfort her, I couldn't see Will for another 3 months and now my bike has been stolen!!

Steve arrived and I hid in my embaressment. I didn't do a good job as he saw me and came and sat down beside me. He smiled, put his hand on my shoulder and comforted me. He gave me a somewhat inspirational speech that made me put things into perspective, telling me everything's OK and that everyone was behind me. I had such a great support system round me. I was doing a job I loved and was living in an Island paradise. Everything's OK.

I came to realise that I just wasn't putting things into perspective and that by not dealing with my issues straight away, and bottling up the emotions, the small issues became big ones. I was oozing negativity and it was generating bad karma. I was my own worst enemy, my thoughts were constantly clouded and I wasn't expressing how I felt. It rang true for a lot of my life. Small problems became big ones when I didn't deal with them. Emotions ran wild after supressing them for too long. I was coming to realise that I needed to believe in myself more, coming to realise that a problem shared really is a problem halved and coming to realise that I have so much potential. Longing to find a purpose, this really was becoming a journey of self-discovery.

Feeling calm and collected, I went back to work. In no time the smile was back on my face. When we finished, we all took a trip to Sari Organic for lunch. Just outside of the city centre, we were transported to the Bali I had been longing to see. Nestled amongst rice paddies, the tranquil landscape calmed and comforted me. It was a beautiful sunny day, the birds were singing and I was in paradise. I am so thankful for all I have experienced so far. This was one of my highlights! After lunch, we all went to have a look at the restaurants organic garden. We got to see what techniques they had been using and talked about ways we thought they could improve their practice. I really enjoyed generating some ideas. I'm starting to learn more and more.

That evening Suha decided to leave. He said he had been feeling out of place for a while and he found it difficult to communicate. It was unexpected but he said he would return. He never did. Me and Justin were feeling slightly perplexed but equally understanding. We both knew deep down that something was up, but unlike myself, Suha felt unable to express what he had been dealing with. What an emotional day!

When Lindsey arrived the next day for work we found out she was upset. That same night, she had found out something about a guy she was dating that she didn't want to. We both decided we needed to get away for a while. After work we both headed to town and booked a tour for that weekend.

Friday night we were back at Steve and Rebecca's for dinner. The usual crew was there, and we drank into the wee hours of the morning. Left feeling hungover, me and Lindsey were off at 8am to catch the bus for our tour.

Krazy Kuta

The first full week flew by. I got to know everyone a lot better and managed to slowly ease into work. It was hard and tiring but fun none the less - 'play time' as Justin likes to call it. Afternoons were free, and I spent most of them reading. In the evening, Suha and I tended to buy our food from local food stalls, spending 60p on average for veggies and rice. Local food is by far the cheapest, and probably the best food in Ubud. Gado Gado has become my favourite. It is a local dish with many variations. Essentially it is vegetables, rice and a spicy peanut sauce (just like sate). Some places serve it with tofu or tempe, others with egg and crackers. Each one tastes slightly different, but all taste yummy!

Suha and I headed to town Thursday to sample some of the nightlife. We ended up eating in a really expensive looking restaurant called 'Sagittarius'. Near the bottom of Monkey Forest Rd, it is a smallish eatery with oil paintings on the walls and candles on the tables. Opening the menu, I was surprised to find how reasonable the prices were. I order Mediterranean veg and salad and a large beer altogether costing less than 4GBP. I left with money in my pocket and food in my belly. We then headed to a place called Boom Boom for drinks. Hoping to see similar prices, I opened the drinks menu. Cocktails started at 5GBP and the cheapest drink on the menu was coffee: I decided to take the sobering option

We spent Friday working in Rebecca's garden, planting seedlings, creating raised beds and sowing seeds. In return, we were rewarded with a great lunch cooked by Rebecca. After we were finished, me and Suha made our way back to THK, packed our bags and headed to Kuta. I never had any intentions of paying Kuta a visit but as Suha was driving to return his bike there anyway I couldn't turn down the free lift. It took almost two hours to get there as the traffic was heavy and we kept getting lost. We arrived at about 4pm, and then parted ways. I checked into a hotel and booked some surfing lessons for the next day. A guy I met over coffee suggested I seek out Ewan as he gives private tutoring. I went with his advice.

I walked around aimlessly for a while and then decided to go for dinner. It was a solitary occassion and wasn't very enjoyable. I was gawped at for reading a book! There are a severe lack of book-worms in Kuta, so unless you have a beer in your hand you are considered an outlaw. Trying to ignore the unwanted attention, I immersed myself in the life of Karl Marks. Feeling rather deflated, I weighed up whether or not to go out. I know my intentions for travelling were not to get blind drunk, but I thought I would make an acception on this occasion... when in Rome.

Heading towards Legian Street, I began to hear the music pumping. Bright lights, tall buildings and drunk Aussies were all I could see. It reminded me of Guild Hall walk back home and I had to take a moment to realise what I was letting myself in for. Choosing the most appealing bar on the strip, I headed to the Reggae Bar. It was fairly empty when I arrived, so I pulled up a bar stoll and got chatting to the barman. A Javanese Rasta, he spoke fluent English and could make a great cocktail. I ended up having a really good conversation with him and he managed to teach me some Indonesian. When the bar was more full, and I felt drunk enough to socialise, I headed to a table and introduced myself to two Aussie girls and their three Indonesian friends. We all hit it off and I ended up staying out with them till about 4am. We ended the night in Sky Garden, a kind of super club split across several floors. I remember dancing to the music and thinking it was the best music I had ever heard, but actually have no memory of what was playing.

Stumbling home, I caught sight of a 24hr internet cafe. What a great time to phone Will I thought. It was 9pm UK time when I skyped him and although I don't remember what I said to him, I remember there was a lot of crying involved. Realising I was a drunken mess and had to be up in 3 hours for surfing, I headed to bed.

Urghhh. I was still drunk when I woke up. It was set to be the worst hangover I had ever experienced and couldn't see how I could possibly surf in this state. I walked to the surf shop and asked for it to be postponed, but no luck! Shit. I boarded the back of this guys moped, he attached my surfboard and we headed to the beach.

Ewan greeted me and plied me with coffee. Normally coffee does something to make me feel better, but today there was no liquid nourishment to be had. We walked down to the shores edge and laid down the surf board. What was to follow bears no repeating...

I was awful! I could barely support my own weight, heavy from the amount of alcohol still in my system. I tried to copy what Ewan did but every time I failed. He was calm and patient and I still have no idea how! I complained the whole time and was almost in tears at one point. I don't think he realised I was hungover and I don't think I realised I probably had alcohol poisoning. For four hours I tried to perfect my surfing, and for four hours I failed. When Ewan finally entrusted me to enter the water, I managed to just face plant on every attempt of catching a wave. I think there may have been one occassion when I managed to stand for a few seconds, but I don't think it constitutes surfing. I really, really, really don't advice drinking the night before you go surfing.

Still feeling like poo, I went and ordered myself a bowl of pasta... maybe that will make me feel better. No. Ok, I'll try coffee. No. Sleeping?

All the methods I usually rely on when hungover failed. I felt dazed and confused, I could feel the acid in my stomach burning and my whole body was like a dead weight. I had arranged to meet Suha in the evening for a drink, but I couldn't stomach it. All I had to do was hold on for a few more hours, then I could go to sleep and wake up better the next day!

I decided to check my emails to find my Mum had sent me an urgent message to ring her. When I finally got hold of her, I knew something was wrong. She made me turrn on the webcam so she could see me.

You OK Mum?
No.
What's happened?
I knew what was coming.
Your Nan passed away last night.
Pause.
Oh, Mum. I'm so sorry.

We had a very emotional talk and I left feeling helpless. I wanted to be at my Mums side to tell everything was alright. I wanted to hug her and tell her how much I love her. I wanted to mourn for my Nan but feel there was no privacy in this hell hole. I headed to bed.

With my hangover still lingering, I decided to do something with my last day! I headed to the beach to sunbathe. I sunbathed all morning and then swiftly made my way to the bus stop. I hoped on and drifted off to sleep shortly after. About an hour after leaving, I was safely back home. I was so glad to be home!