Manila. The name sends shivers down the spine of many. Violence. Gang culture. An over-populated metropolis where beggars roam the streets, prostitutes tout the tourists and men carry guns (it is legal in the Philippines). The images and info I found whilst roaming the web left me feeling rather dubious about my choice. Nonetheless, I left feeling excited about a change of scenery. I arrived during the monsoon season. I have never experienced rain quite like it but even though I was pounded and drenched by the time I made it to my hostel, there was a kind of eery yet magical quality about the power of the storm. Nature is a wonderful thing.
Exploring the sights of the city, I dragged Sinead, Gavin and Geoff out in the rain. A motorised taxi (a pimped out but run down motorbike with side car) followed by a Jeepney (former US military WW11 jeeps) and we were there. The heart of metro Manila. Wading through inches of water and tonnes of rubbish and sewage, we passed many a vendor selling counterfeit goods.
Boarding the metro, me and Sinead in our 'female only carriage', we made it to China town (somewhat disappointing but still a right of passage when visiting any town in Asia). Passing through the arches of China town, we caught sight of a beautifully out-of-place anglican looking church. Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz towered over the central square, dominating the grey sky above. Inside is an Aladdin's cave of statues depicting various saints. Entering during mass, it was rather haunting to see the amount of men and women on their knees praying to the man upstairs.
A few hundred yards away, through the tangled web of streets and bodies, we arrived at a church of a far grander scale. Quiapo church was built by Roman Catholic missionaries (aka 'Franciscans') in the 16th century. A vast cavernous space which seemed rather lifeless in comparison.
Intramuros. Far removed from the typical imagery envisioned when Manila springs to mind, yet one of the most alluring. Although it is now essentially a walled student village, it history is steeped in Spanish influence. The oldest district, it was built during the height of spanish colonialism. White facades, balconies and a unified structure, Intramuros seems at odds with the rough and ready reality of Manila. Finishing the day with a San Miguel, we chilled in a coffee shop whilst, um, 'serenaded' by the singer waiters. They REALLY like their Karaoke.
North Luzon, the most northern region of mainland Manila. A beautiful mountainous landscape famous for its fertile soil and chilly climate. A long way from the capital, the journey to the north is split up by a stop gap in Bagio. A student town set high up in the mountains, it reminds me of the swiss alps in late spring. In keeping with the tacky chalet style digs, most accommodation is suitably kitsch, suitable for all the men and women who love a bit of thigh-slapping and lederhosen. Nonetheless, its hilly charm and penchant for good booze, it helps satisfy the weary traveller.
Sagada. The real gem of the Northern territory. A tiny populous of Philippinos who enjoy the simple things. With limited power, you really get to appreciate the natural beauty that shrouds this village. Caves are vast. There narrow passages and exquisite formations are most alluring. Limestone deposits act as velcro against your feet allowing you to become an amateur spiderman for the day. Spelunking and absailing are all included for the extra adrenaline kick and a generous helping of icy water leaves your skin supple - thats if you can avoid the potential frost bite. Food is tasty, but only for the truly carnivorous. Roast chicken became my staple and any thoughts of my vegan conscious were put on hold. Did you expect me to go hungry? Known for it's hanging coffins, fans of the underworld will get there fix in Sagada. A spooky spectacle.
Palawan. One of the largest islands of the coast of the mainland, but one of the least inhabited. Pristine forest and untouched wilderness makes Palawan the Philippines final frontier. Protected from the monsoons, a ray of sunshine always manages to penetrate the clouds. El Nido (meaning the nest) is a bay of clear blue and sandy yellow. You know those postcards of unspoilt beaches and an almost surreal vibrancy... the place you always expect to find. Well you will find it here. As you feel your heart beat ease and take your first breath of the truly fresh air, you know you have arrived. Beach huts scatter the shore and outriggers stand proud in the shallows. Apart from a few places to eat and the odd house you could easily think you were on your own private island. Mainly hanging with the locals, my experience of the Philippines was excelled to a higher level. With smiles on their faces and beer and guitar in hand, they lead the life that most dream of. Spending the day on many of the islands surrounding the coast and the night on the beach serving drinks, playing music or cooking grouper on the beach barbecue, there is very little to complain about in this little piece of heaven.
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