Siam Reap: Where to begin?

Leaving at 9am, it was just a few short hours until I crossed the border into Cambodia. It is still a strange experience, just hoping from one border to the next. The people, the landscape and the general vibe you experience seems to slowly change as you head into the heart of a new country. Traditions and ways of life are on display, for all to see, visible from the window of your ac-bus. Yet it is not till you step off, and make your way to your destination, that you begin to feel the welcoming embrace of the locals. Unfortunately, most stops on the bus line tend to be tourist hubs in bustling cities, full of congestion, noise and towering buildings. Phnom Penh definitely fits the brief. The fumes fill your lungs and the noise is almost deafening. Just like Ho Chi Minh, it takes a lot to get used to and can be hard to love. I was told not to stay long but it was due to time constraints, not advice, that stopped me from staying in the capital of Cambodia. It was simply a stop-gap for me on my way to Siam Reap.
While waiting for the bus, I got chatting to two girls heading in the same direction: Aafke, from Holland; and Skye, from San Francisco. Both were traveling solo but knew each other from a previous trip. Agogo, a local Cambodian Tuk-Tuk driver dating Aafke, was also there and after what seemed like an eternity of waiting, the girls, Agogo and I boarded the bus.
The trip door-to-door from HCM to Siam Reap took 15 hours. It was a long day! We checked into Siam Reap Rooms and headed to bed... off to the temples in the morning!
The temples of Siam Reap, are expansive, extensive and complex. There are over 100 temples scattered amongst an area greater than 400 square kilometers. However, the ones still fairly well preserved are accessible within about a 20km radius. Ideally you need three days to make the most of what is on offer but we ambitiously attempted it in 2! Starting on the first day, we set out about midday to do the 'grand tour'. Leaving at the hottest point of the day was a bad move but the breeze created from our little tuk-tuk provided some comfort. Our driver, Mr. Mean, was in fact the nicest driver I have encountered. He was recommended by our guesthouse and I would advise all future travellers to look him up.

The Khmer temples were built during Angkor period (between the 9th - 13th century). Jayavarman II, the ruling king, wanted to build his capital 'angkor' (city) here. Taking so long to complete, it has become a collection of cities, each dedicated to a different king. Thus, all temples are unique and each represents a different deity and purpose. Although some were all-encompassing others paid homage to only one religion.

Day 1
We started in Wat Bayon, the last temple to be built during Khmer rule by the buddhist king Jayavarman VII in his capital of Angkor Thom. It was later altered by Hindu kings so both buddhist and hindu relics are seen throughout. Stone faces predominate and are scattered around the many-layered temple. Bas-reliefs representing mythical scenes and historic battles are also visible; another feature universal to the temples of Siam Reap.

Baphuon was next. Originally constructed to worship the Hindu god Shiva, it was later changed to honour Buddha in the 15th century. The whole temple and surrounding raised pathways were all built on sand, so many of the foundations have given way and crumbled. The main complex was closed when we were there, but the surrounding forests and grand walkways make it a worthwhile visit. Similarly, Prasat suor prat, a collection of 12 identical temples, is worth a look due to its peaceful setting with adjoining lake.
We made our way back to Mr. Mean and all piled back into the tuk-tuk. Banteay Kdei was next on the agenda. A Buddhist 'citadel of chanbers', it was a beautifully ornate temple, with trees strangling the structures and constricting the foundations they have kept it well preserved.
Neak Pean was next on our stop, with an impressively long gangway leading to its entrance. It is best visited in the rainy season when the moated exterior and flooded interior spring to life. Unfortunately it was fairly dry on our visit, although the heavens soon opened and the internal lake began to fill. We were soaked through by the time we returned but decided to carry on regardless.
Pre Rup was the last temple. It is supposed to have great views for sunset due to its height and location; overlooking the beautiful forests and temples around angkor. The sunset never materialised, as it was hidden by storm clouds, but the pounding rain was a great alternative. It poured and poured, soaking us to the core. It made for a treacherous climb to the summit, but was well worth it. Local children danced in the rain and we all left with smiles on our faces.
It was about 7pm when we finally returned. Me and sky went out for dinner and a few drinks. I had my first taste of amok, an amazing local specialty of veg, lemon grass and spices in a creamy curry. Yum!

Day 2
Sunrise at Angkor. It was a pretty pathetic sunrise as it was overcast and half of the temple was under construction, but the sheer size is a beauty to behold. Angkor wat is dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, the preserver, and to his human embodiment in Suryavarman II, who was considered a god-king. Arriving around half 5, we spent several hours walking around the intricate palace.
We drove about half an hour out of the main temple complex to visit Banteay Srey. The 'Citadel of women' was a Buddhist temple built in the 10th century. It was markedly different to many of the other temples we saw, with its red bricks and small stature. The nearby museum was great to visit as it was somewhat of a struggle for us to figure out the purpose of many of the temples. The informative displays filled in the gaps and made us appreciate the magnitude of the undertaking.
Beng Mealea, a temple almost in disrepair, has been taken over by forest. What remains are dark and menacing corridors and beautiful courtyards. It is tricky trying to navigate yourself round the ruin but it is a serene, if not slightly foreboding, place to visit.
My favourite temple, Ta Phrom, is one of the better know temples as it was the film set for Tomb raider. It is essentially in ruins, but the roots of trees that entwine the temple are holding up the remnants. It is beautifully ornate and a maze to navigate. Highly recommended!
Prasat Kravan, built in the 10th century, is dedicated to Vishnu. Another red-brick structure it was another favourite. The smallest of all the temples we saw, it is intricate yet understated. It proves that grandure and factitious detail somewhat take away from the true essence of a temple; to honour the deity that lies at the core of religion.
Almost 13 hours after leaving our hostel, we finally returned. Not wanting to miss out on my final night in Siam Reap, I headed out with Sky, Aafke and Agogo. Amok was on the menu and I happily tucked into another tasty bowl. Beers were drank, shots were had and dancing was done. A great end to my few short days in Cambodia.

It must be noted that I did visit a few other temples. However, my memory escapes me. Either way, the memories and mental images will always stay prominent in my thoughts!