I have realised that I am getting further behind with my updates so am just gonna have to give you a quick rundown of my time in Laos.
The 15 hour bus journey was uncomfortable and sweaty and I didn't manage to get to sleep. It was pouring with rain and the roads were full of potholes. However the people I met kept me amused. I arrived in Vientiene about 7am after passing through endless border controls. I was a bit dazed and confused when I arrived so I just took the advice of someone I met in Chang Mai and checked into the Youth Inn. The outside looked a bit shabby and the room basic, but I thought it would suffice for one night. On closer inspection though I realised that my sheets were dirty, there was a hole punched into my mdf walls, the fan for the room was nowhere to be seen and when I walked on the floor barefoot the varnish stuck to the soles of my feet. The shared bathroom left a lot to be desired so I decided to venture out and spent as little as possible there.
I walked into town and had a look round the national museum. It was really interesting, covering everything prehistoric and ancient times to modern day politcal struggles experienced around Laos and the Mekong. After almost two hours wondering round, I grabbed the number 14 to the Buddha Park. It is about an hour away from Vientiane but well worth a visit. It was the idea of an eccentric shamen/yogi who wanted to merge the dieties of Muslim and Buddhist faiths in a hommage to their sanctity. They are extremely impresses and the size of some of the stone statues is overwhelming. You can explore the park in about 30mins but I stayed longer so that I could sit by the Mekong and write in my Journal. As I was writing, a monk began to sing as he was swaying in his hammock right next to me. It was so relaxing and I felt a kind of inner-peace.
I spent the evening in a bar opposite my hostel. I met a few people and had some rather controversial conversations before I called it a day and headed to bed. I caught the bus to Vang Vieng at 10am with a couple who had been staying at my hostel. Gavin and Sinead, both from Ireland, had been travelling for a few months now and had plans to work in NZ for a year once they had finished SEA.
The following day we went tubing and met up with Gordon and Katrina. In 5 hours we had only managedto make it to 5 bars and I managed to cut my foot in the process. For those unaware, tubing involves hiring rubber ring an floating down 6km of the Mekong. The region is set in the river basin so it makes for a beautiful landscape of scarred mountains enlaced with tropical forests. The weather is humid and it rained, without fail, every day at 4pm. However, tubing isn't so straightforward. As it has become popular with backpackers, it has been made into an adult water park, with zip wires, slides and swings dotted along the river. Accompaning these are an inumerable amount of bars, all luring you in with some kind of drinks promotion. All constructed, very poorly, from timber, the bars and attractions are all fairly unsafe. Combined with alcohol, 4 people have died in VangVieng in the last month or so, often as the result of drowning. The idea of being able to meander down the river in a tube while drinking cocktails is alluring, but the result is often somewhat different.
My first night involved me getting hideously drunk and throwing up before dinner. My tablets also effect my drinking so this may have been part of the cause. The next day we decided to ditch the rings and instead swim and float. We made it a lot further down and it allowed us to walk through forest and paddy fields. We met a really good group of guys at one bar and we played drinking games with them for a few hours and went on the slide a few times. After dinner we all headed to Q bar and then called it a night. On my penultimate day, we all tried to make it down the entirety of the river so set of a 10am. By 5pm we still hadn't completed our mission so had to flog down a tuktuk for the last leg. VangVieng was great fun but unfortunately there is nothing to do in the day other than watched friends or family guy in one of the many restaurants.
7 hours after leaving Vang Vieng, I arrived in Luag Prubang. I was lucky to coinscide my arrival so that I would be able to meet up with some old uni friends. We swapped stories of our travels whilst drinking wine and playing cards.. just like the uni days. After a tip of from th girls, I went to visit the Kouangsi falls. Coincidentally, a few guys I had met in Vang Vieng were on my tour. We had a great day swiming beneath the waterfall and the scenery was something else. The water was crystal clear and a pale shade of turqoise. The setting was a nature reserve set about an hour outside Luang Prubang, A UNESCO world heritage site. In the evening I suggested we all head to Utopia, a bar that I had been to the night before. Set down an alley overlooking the Nham Khan river, it is a beautiful setting where everyone lounges on the floor, smokes shisha and drinks cocktails. There is a full size beach volleyball court and fairy lights and candles provide the lighting. After a meal and a lot of beer, we all played Jenga and then called it a night. It is true what they say about the simple things in life. Good company makes all the difference and up until this point, this was the best night of my trip so far.
xx
Monday, 23 May 2011
Tuesday, 10 May 2011
Farewell Thailand
The two dutch travellers I met whilst trekking, Jorine and Joris (I think that is how they are spelt) were living at my hostel so we all decided to go out to the Reggae bar in the evening. Anook also joined and after having a few Chang (Thai beer) at Julie's we went for a cocktail at the TukTuk bar (which is literally just a converted TukTuk).
The main bars are located about 10 minutes up from our hostel and a few are outside. The Reggae bar had live music playing the likes of Manu Chao and Bob Marley. We all danced for a while and I managed to meet two more Brits. After a few hours, I was totally shattered so we all headed back.
I woke in the morning feeling broken. All my muscles were stiff and I found it hard to move. A Thai massage was in order. Paying under 3 GBP I hobbled next door where a sumo sized Thai lady began to pummle me and twist me in ways I didn't know possible. After an hour of contortion I paid up and then went for a walk around the city. The massage didn't take effect till the following day so my 5 hours getting lost around the city was somewhat arduous.
I met up with Dee in the evening and played cards with a group of Brits and the two Dutch. Me, Dee and Robyn, this Swede we met, once again head to the Reggae bar. Sunday was my last day in Chiang Mai. Dee and I spent it by the pool in a nearby hotel and then I came back to wait for a night (mini)bus to Vientiane, Laos.
Leaving Laos was sad as I grew really fond of the place, as well as meeting some awesome people. A few have headed to Vang Vieng though so we may well cross paths again soon.
The main bars are located about 10 minutes up from our hostel and a few are outside. The Reggae bar had live music playing the likes of Manu Chao and Bob Marley. We all danced for a while and I managed to meet two more Brits. After a few hours, I was totally shattered so we all headed back.
I woke in the morning feeling broken. All my muscles were stiff and I found it hard to move. A Thai massage was in order. Paying under 3 GBP I hobbled next door where a sumo sized Thai lady began to pummle me and twist me in ways I didn't know possible. After an hour of contortion I paid up and then went for a walk around the city. The massage didn't take effect till the following day so my 5 hours getting lost around the city was somewhat arduous.
I met up with Dee in the evening and played cards with a group of Brits and the two Dutch. Me, Dee and Robyn, this Swede we met, once again head to the Reggae bar. Sunday was my last day in Chiang Mai. Dee and I spent it by the pool in a nearby hotel and then I came back to wait for a night (mini)bus to Vientiane, Laos.
Leaving Laos was sad as I grew really fond of the place, as well as meeting some awesome people. A few have headed to Vang Vieng though so we may well cross paths again soon.
Monday, 9 May 2011
Trekking through the cloud forests... breathtaking
Since my last post, a lot has happened. In Chiang Mai I managed to loose my key for my bike and had to pay 150baht for a new one just before going on a two-day one-night trek through the jungle, oops. The trek began at an elephant reserve. I had asked for a trek without elephants as I don't agree how their treated but unfortunately there were no such packages. But, although not necessary, the elephant ride was pleasant and the elephants where treated well and could roam off the path if they wanted to (which are elephant did frequently).
After lunch, we began our trek. The views were spectacular but the heat was intense. Luckily rain started to fall about 4pm meaning we could cool down and enjoy the last part of the climb. Walking for over three hours, we climbed more than 6 1/2km and 900m. The trek was tough and deffinitely harder than scarfell, but we were able to stop at a waterfall halfway which made things seem a little easier. My footwear however was very innapropriate as I forgot to pack hiking boots and instead just wore trainers that were already ready for the bin. With holes in the soles, my feet were soaked by the time we reached the hill tribe.
The evening was spent in the large bamboo structure... like a tree house without the tree. We enjoyed green curry and some games and spent the evening stargazing whilst a local Lahu tribesman was singing songs to us (as well as some well-known classics) with his guitar.
Waking about 8am, we had breakfast where I ate an omlette(!) and then started to make our descent. After about 1 1/2 we stopped at this beautiful waterfall and chilled for a bit. When I had just regained feelings in my toes, we started to walk along the river. Next thing I knew we were white water rafting. It was bloody fantastic although we did almost fall out at one point. After about 40 minutes of pure adreniline, we swapped boats for a bamboo raft. We drifted slowly down the last part of the river until we arrived at our final destination for lunch.
As we had such a good tour guide, Willo, I decided to get everyone to put in 20baht each as a little tip which he greatly appreciated. He was telling me how poor he was and I think he tugged at my heart string. I am so far behind on this blog as that finished Thursday but there is just so much to write and so much to do, I can't keep up.
I really need a wee, and feeling slightly awkward as the guy next to me is talking to his Thai bride-to-be (who doesn't really understand what he is saying) on skype so must shoot. Many more tales to tell. I am in Laos now but you will hear about it soon.
After lunch, we began our trek. The views were spectacular but the heat was intense. Luckily rain started to fall about 4pm meaning we could cool down and enjoy the last part of the climb. Walking for over three hours, we climbed more than 6 1/2km and 900m. The trek was tough and deffinitely harder than scarfell, but we were able to stop at a waterfall halfway which made things seem a little easier. My footwear however was very innapropriate as I forgot to pack hiking boots and instead just wore trainers that were already ready for the bin. With holes in the soles, my feet were soaked by the time we reached the hill tribe.
The evening was spent in the large bamboo structure... like a tree house without the tree. We enjoyed green curry and some games and spent the evening stargazing whilst a local Lahu tribesman was singing songs to us (as well as some well-known classics) with his guitar.
Waking about 8am, we had breakfast where I ate an omlette(!) and then started to make our descent. After about 1 1/2 we stopped at this beautiful waterfall and chilled for a bit. When I had just regained feelings in my toes, we started to walk along the river. Next thing I knew we were white water rafting. It was bloody fantastic although we did almost fall out at one point. After about 40 minutes of pure adreniline, we swapped boats for a bamboo raft. We drifted slowly down the last part of the river until we arrived at our final destination for lunch.
As we had such a good tour guide, Willo, I decided to get everyone to put in 20baht each as a little tip which he greatly appreciated. He was telling me how poor he was and I think he tugged at my heart string. I am so far behind on this blog as that finished Thursday but there is just so much to write and so much to do, I can't keep up.
I really need a wee, and feeling slightly awkward as the guy next to me is talking to his Thai bride-to-be (who doesn't really understand what he is saying) on skype so must shoot. Many more tales to tell. I am in Laos now but you will hear about it soon.
Friday, 6 May 2011
Chilled Chiang Mai, if not a little rainy
The air-conditioned carriage was a welcome suprise and the bunkbed was fairly comfortable. I got on the train pretty early but was soon joined by two girls, Clare and Kate. They had spent the last year working in Australia working for Toni and Guy and managed to save enough money to explore south east Asia before heading back to their home in Petersfield, England. We sat up talking for a few hours, drank a few beers and then went to bed.
We awoke to a view like no other. Paddy fields, rolling hills, palm trees and and a rural backdrop... we must be in Chiang Mai. Hitching a ride on a Sawangthaew (a kind of taxi with two benches fixed on the back of a pick up truck, with a tin roof and open windows), we drove through the narrow alleys typical of the centre to my guesthouse called Julie's (recommended by my friends I met in Bangkok).
Paying just 100baht a night, I wasn't expecting luxury, but the place turned out to be a kind of hippy utopia. The bamboo entrance is covered in creeping vines which lead to a restaurant and bar with a pool table and plenty of triangular cushions used for reclining. The place is colourful and eclectic and the staff very accomodating. I was taken to my room which had a double bed and fan with a shared bathroom adjacent.
After settling in, I met a guy called Nicholas from the Ivory coast, who works in Bangkok. He advised I hire a bicycle to explore the city, so that is exactly what I did. A Thai man on a moped drove me 200 meters up the road where I rented a bike for 50baht and then set off to see what I could find.
I was immediately lost, but I managed to find 3 temples along this one road. Wat Pan Ping, Wat Lam Chang anf Wat Chiang Man. All were totally different but the last two I would highly recommend. Wat Lam Chang was so called as, during the time when Chiang Mai was being constructed, the King, King Mengrai, lived nearby and the wooden building used to house the Elephants he used for transport was located where the temple now stands. The temple, meaning 'shackled elephants', was constructed in their honour. The elephant god Ganesh can be seen at the temple and stone carvings of elephants are visible everywhere.
Wat Chiang Man, the largest of the three temples, was built at the end of the 13th century and was the first to be erected in Chiang Mai. Chedi Chang Lom (the Elephant chedi) is a square structure supported by 15 lifes-sized stone elephants which keep the guilded chedi secure. Next to the Chedi is a lotus pond and then infront of the two sights stand the main Wihan and it's newer counterpart. The former contains a mondop ( a pillared hall for rituals) surrounded by buddhas - with one claimed to be the oldest statue in Chiang Mai, dating from the Lanna Kingdom. The latter houses a clear quartz buddha, which is suprisingly small (about the size of a barbie doll) but thought to protect against disaster (which is pretty handy as there have been torential downpours the last couple of days).
I headed back to my guesthouse after abouty 5pm and spent the evening taling to Dee from Cumbria and Dave from Bristol. Both are veteran backpackers and Dave has now been travelling for 10 months. He has now headed to Laos but we may cross paths at somepoint. After booking a two-day one-night trek, I headed to bed.
The vibe is so much more chilled here and there are a lot more ventures to be had.
Still more to write, but once again, run out of internet time. Love to all and you will here from me soon x
We awoke to a view like no other. Paddy fields, rolling hills, palm trees and and a rural backdrop... we must be in Chiang Mai. Hitching a ride on a Sawangthaew (a kind of taxi with two benches fixed on the back of a pick up truck, with a tin roof and open windows), we drove through the narrow alleys typical of the centre to my guesthouse called Julie's (recommended by my friends I met in Bangkok).
Paying just 100baht a night, I wasn't expecting luxury, but the place turned out to be a kind of hippy utopia. The bamboo entrance is covered in creeping vines which lead to a restaurant and bar with a pool table and plenty of triangular cushions used for reclining. The place is colourful and eclectic and the staff very accomodating. I was taken to my room which had a double bed and fan with a shared bathroom adjacent.
After settling in, I met a guy called Nicholas from the Ivory coast, who works in Bangkok. He advised I hire a bicycle to explore the city, so that is exactly what I did. A Thai man on a moped drove me 200 meters up the road where I rented a bike for 50baht and then set off to see what I could find.
I was immediately lost, but I managed to find 3 temples along this one road. Wat Pan Ping, Wat Lam Chang anf Wat Chiang Man. All were totally different but the last two I would highly recommend. Wat Lam Chang was so called as, during the time when Chiang Mai was being constructed, the King, King Mengrai, lived nearby and the wooden building used to house the Elephants he used for transport was located where the temple now stands. The temple, meaning 'shackled elephants', was constructed in their honour. The elephant god Ganesh can be seen at the temple and stone carvings of elephants are visible everywhere.
Wat Chiang Man, the largest of the three temples, was built at the end of the 13th century and was the first to be erected in Chiang Mai. Chedi Chang Lom (the Elephant chedi) is a square structure supported by 15 lifes-sized stone elephants which keep the guilded chedi secure. Next to the Chedi is a lotus pond and then infront of the two sights stand the main Wihan and it's newer counterpart. The former contains a mondop ( a pillared hall for rituals) surrounded by buddhas - with one claimed to be the oldest statue in Chiang Mai, dating from the Lanna Kingdom. The latter houses a clear quartz buddha, which is suprisingly small (about the size of a barbie doll) but thought to protect against disaster (which is pretty handy as there have been torential downpours the last couple of days).
I headed back to my guesthouse after abouty 5pm and spent the evening taling to Dee from Cumbria and Dave from Bristol. Both are veteran backpackers and Dave has now been travelling for 10 months. He has now headed to Laos but we may cross paths at somepoint. After booking a two-day one-night trek, I headed to bed.
The vibe is so much more chilled here and there are a lot more ventures to be had.
Still more to write, but once again, run out of internet time. Love to all and you will here from me soon x
Wednesday, 4 May 2011
Bangkok beginnings
When I wrote this entry I began it in Subway drinking a can of coke. How uncultured you may think, but it was simply because nowhere seemed to have aircon. I was staying next door in Chada hostel but my 300baht room didn't allow me the luxury of a central cooling unit.
That aside, Bangkok was a good introduction to my 5 month journey. At midday temperatures soared to over 40 degrees and humidity was almost unbearable. The streets bustled with market vendors selling westernised clothing and traditional street food. There was a continual hum from taxis, tuk tuks and mopeds whilst the smell of sewage, smoke fumes and fish sauce filled your lungs. Yet the people were fascinating, the temples opulent and the positive vibes contagious.
Arriving at 7pm at Suvarnabhumi International Airport, I took an hours taxi ride to Kohsan Road, central Bangkok. This is the destination for most tourists visiting the area as it is lined with endless bars, hostels and restaurants.
Following a recommend from my friend Ellie, I checked into Chada youth hostel, showered, changed and headed out to meet some friends who were also in Bangkok. Craig, James and Alex were staying in an air conditioned hotel just down the road from me. We had a few beers then went for a meal. After a few more beers we ventured into a club on Kohsan. James and Alex were on the pull (or looking to 'trap' as my Mum calls it) so me and Craig looked on in amusement as Alex chatted up a lady boy. Leaving the boys to their hopeless pursuit, me and Craig headed to bed at 2.30am.
At 7.30am on the Monday, I met the boys at their hotel to catch a taxi then a 2hour bus journey to the floating market. Returning at 3.30pm, we had lunch and spent the afternoon by the pool on the roof of their 7 storey hotel. It was a well needed respite as the water was ice cold. In the evening we headed for cocktails and listened to a small Thai man attempt, fairly successfully, to sing western music. After my first sangsom bucket, I was pretty gone so I decided to call it a night at 1am, leaving the guys to get ready for their flight home.
Due to the lack of sleep I lie in was necessary to get me functioning normally. I awoke at 9am, checked out, booked my train ticket and then headed out in search of the Grand Palace. On my way I stumbled upon Wat Rachabophit. I climbed the steps, removed my shoes and slowly walked into the temple. Local Thais were sat praying in front of the sitting Buddha so I sat amongst them to show my respect. As feet are considered the lowest part of the body, both physically and spiritually, so you must sit on your legs so that your feet point away from the Buddha.
Just a few minutes from Wat Rachabophit is the Grand Palace. Avoiding all the hustlers and tuk tuks trying to tell you the temple was closed, I entered the main entrance, paid the minimal fee and then began looking round the palace and its adjoining buildings. Glistening gold and lustrous jewels shimmer in the sunshine and there is a seemingly unlimited number of Buddhas.
Unfortunately I was still without a memory card by that point so no photos to show. Leaving the Palace, I walked back to my hostel until I caught a Yuk Tuk to Hulamphong train station for my overnight train.
(more to tell but my credit has run out. Another update soon xxx)
That aside, Bangkok was a good introduction to my 5 month journey. At midday temperatures soared to over 40 degrees and humidity was almost unbearable. The streets bustled with market vendors selling westernised clothing and traditional street food. There was a continual hum from taxis, tuk tuks and mopeds whilst the smell of sewage, smoke fumes and fish sauce filled your lungs. Yet the people were fascinating, the temples opulent and the positive vibes contagious.
Arriving at 7pm at Suvarnabhumi International Airport, I took an hours taxi ride to Kohsan Road, central Bangkok. This is the destination for most tourists visiting the area as it is lined with endless bars, hostels and restaurants.
Following a recommend from my friend Ellie, I checked into Chada youth hostel, showered, changed and headed out to meet some friends who were also in Bangkok. Craig, James and Alex were staying in an air conditioned hotel just down the road from me. We had a few beers then went for a meal. After a few more beers we ventured into a club on Kohsan. James and Alex were on the pull (or looking to 'trap' as my Mum calls it) so me and Craig looked on in amusement as Alex chatted up a lady boy. Leaving the boys to their hopeless pursuit, me and Craig headed to bed at 2.30am.
At 7.30am on the Monday, I met the boys at their hotel to catch a taxi then a 2hour bus journey to the floating market. Returning at 3.30pm, we had lunch and spent the afternoon by the pool on the roof of their 7 storey hotel. It was a well needed respite as the water was ice cold. In the evening we headed for cocktails and listened to a small Thai man attempt, fairly successfully, to sing western music. After my first sangsom bucket, I was pretty gone so I decided to call it a night at 1am, leaving the guys to get ready for their flight home.
Due to the lack of sleep I lie in was necessary to get me functioning normally. I awoke at 9am, checked out, booked my train ticket and then headed out in search of the Grand Palace. On my way I stumbled upon Wat Rachabophit. I climbed the steps, removed my shoes and slowly walked into the temple. Local Thais were sat praying in front of the sitting Buddha so I sat amongst them to show my respect. As feet are considered the lowest part of the body, both physically and spiritually, so you must sit on your legs so that your feet point away from the Buddha.
Just a few minutes from Wat Rachabophit is the Grand Palace. Avoiding all the hustlers and tuk tuks trying to tell you the temple was closed, I entered the main entrance, paid the minimal fee and then began looking round the palace and its adjoining buildings. Glistening gold and lustrous jewels shimmer in the sunshine and there is a seemingly unlimited number of Buddhas.
Unfortunately I was still without a memory card by that point so no photos to show. Leaving the Palace, I walked back to my hostel until I caught a Yuk Tuk to Hulamphong train station for my overnight train.
(more to tell but my credit has run out. Another update soon xxx)