Lovina Tour

Rain began to pour. I was outside waiting for a bus at 8.30 on a Saturday, with a hangover! This was not a good start to my weekend. My stomach was churning and my head pounded... this better be a bloody good tour.

The bus finally arrived. I climbed on and sat next to two guys from Germany whilst Lindsey sat in front. Setting off I began to feel better and the clouds began to part. The rain subsided as we approached our first stop , the Family palace. It is entered from a bridge that leads across a lake to an ornate entrance. It oozes traditional Balinese architecture, with its geometrical designs, carved into red brick and stone.  A sign to our left reads:
''During menstruation ladies are strictly not allowed to enter the temple"

We walked through to a courtyard and then round back to explore the other structures. It was set amongst a forest with paths leading down to a river. It was peaceful and a nice start to the day. As soon as we got back into the van, the heavens opened. Good timing!

The Coffee plantation was next on the agenda. Driving past rice fields and small villages, we headed down a country road to the plantation, which also grows galangal, lemongrass, cocunuts and other crops. A lovely woman showed us round and told us about the renowned Civet coffee. Locally known as Kopi Luwak, the coffee is made from coffee cherries which have been eaten and then digested by the Asian Palm Civet. The lady insists it tastes great, but at Rp 40,000 a cup, I am not convinced (plus the fact Linds said it really isn't anything to shout about). Bypassing the over-priced cuppa we sat down to a free tasting of Lemon Tea, Ginseng Coffee, Ginger Tea, Bali coffee and Hot chocolate. I ended up buying the first three as they tasted so good, mainly due to the high sugar content.

Leaving the plantation, we drove through Strawberry hill. Unsuprisingly, farmers grow Strawberries on its slopes and the market town you pass on the decent is scattered with bursts of red and pink from all the punnets lining the vendors displays. Cars lined the streets of our next destination. We arrived at a Temple in Bedugul, set on the Beratan lake. Ulun Danu temple is dedicated to the goddess of the lake, and is famous for Hindu worship. We were very lucky to witness a ceremony when we arrived and it is nothing like you have ever seen. Thousands of people descended on the temple, all dressed in their best Kabaya (lace blouses) and Kamblan (batik waistbands) to pay respect to the god(s). I tried to ask our tour guide what the ceremony was about but unfortunately the language barrier invalidates the response I received. We spent almost an hour just soaking up the ambiance and people watching. It was my favourite part of the day.

After denting a car whilst trying to maneuver out of a parking space, our driver hastily drove us to Git Git Waterfalls. The decent from the roadside down to the falls was quite a challenge for our weary bodies but me and Linds managed to make it, partly due to stopping every 5 minutes to browse the wears of the hawkers lining the steps. We gathered speed as we heard the booming sound of water against rock. Some 35m high, it is protected by a dense forest that caresses the hillside. Just 10 minutes from Singaraja,  it feels like you are far removed from civilisation, well apart from the Chinese tourists and the kids trying to sell you bracelets.

Lunch was spent at Lovina and we were thoroughly unimpressed. The tide was in and the beach non-existent. The town seemed to be just a narrow strip of overpriced restaurants on the sea-front (although we later realised this was simply because our driver took us to the rubbish part) and misunderstanding the restaurant owner, we paid Rp50000 for our meal when we thought it was to cost just Rp15000. Oops.

The hot springs of Banjar was our last stop. It was a great way to relax after a very hard day of sightseeing. The water was more luke-warm and although it is considered to have restorative and healing powers, I found the water to be somewhat slimy, and couldn't help think of all the dead skin cells. Nonetheless, I really enjoyed it as it was mainly used by locals and they were all smiling. The setting was serene, nestled amongst a forested garden and although we were a little rushed, it was a great end to the tour.

Our driver kindly stopped on the way back to let us take photos of the twin lakes of Tamblingan and Buyan although the sunset he promised was somewhat non-existent.

Saying farewell to the driver and its passengers, I stepped off the bus at ARMA. The museum of art and performance is just a stones throw away from where I am living in Ubud. I had heard there was a free Bellydancing show on that evening so I went to check it out. I had arrived just in time and sat for most of the duration. I was so glad to finally catch a show and all the more it was for free! I walked home with a smile on my face. What a productive day for a hangover! I was about to call it a night when I heard an interesting noise coming from the direction of the community centre. Right next toChakra's house, I decided to check it out. Inside there were 50+ locals watching a performance of what I can only describe as stomp. Men in tradtional outfits were doing body percussion and chanting in a hypnotic manner. It was mesmerising. I sat down and watched. They were finishing their performance but I was glad to catch the ending. When I thought I had been performanced out, another group emerged onto the stage. Dressed in japanese martial arts gear, a group of 20-something kids started performing martial arts whilst drumming (I later found out it is called Wadaiko). It was insane. I was so captivated and although the performance lasted over an hour it felt like mere minutes. Returning home feeling exhausted, I was greeted by Chakra, Justin and his friend Evan playing drums and guitar. I retold my tales from my epic day and then headed to bed.

Emotional Upheaval

Starting work on Monday, I was glad to be back to some form of normality. I was excited about the week ahead and spending some quality time with Justin as it was his last full week!

On Tuesday I met up with Lisa, Ellie and Terri on, catching them on their way to Australia. I met them in the afternoon and took them to the Monkey Forest as I hadn't been there yet. It is a reserve for the Balinese long-tailed macaque and houses three sacred temples. Right in the centre of town you are transported to a lost world upon entering. You walk down into a forested valley, with winding paths that lead down to the stream at its heart. Monkeys are running wild, rustling the trees, soaking up the sun and being mischievous. We saw several monkeys getting down and dirty, whilst others were sprawled out along the paths blocking our passage. It was really good fun and a great chance to catch up with the girls. We got to see a couple in traditional dress having there wedding photos taken and had a look around one of the temples. Stopping over the bridge to take photos, I also got attacked by a monkey who had felt a plastic bottle in my bag. Rooting through it, he tossed aside my wallet and retrieved his play toy. I thought it best to stand still. The girls thought it best to take photos.

In the evening I went to look up flights for Will. He told me a few days before that he could no longer afford to come visit me. It broke my heart knowing it wouldn't be till October when I could next see him! I searched for over 2 hours, looking at numerous comparison websites and phoning dozens of travel agencies. After all that effort, I had to conclude that it was just too expensive. I left feeling so low. I had a shit weekend and now I wasn't going to get to see the love of my life for FIVE months. I walked slowly back to my bike. Negative thoughts began to consume me. Why couldn't Will afford to see me? Why did I go to Kuta? Why have I had such a crap week? Walking down the hill to my bike, I thought that at this rate my bike would be stolen too.

Shit! My bike! Bollocks! Where is it?

I broke down in tears. Low and behold, it had been stolen. Why is all this happening? I headed back to THK. Taking me almost half an hour, I returned home to find the place in silence. Justin was asleep and Suha was out. I cried myself to sleep that night.

Feeling very vulnerable and short tempered, a minor remark from Justin made be break down in tears at work. Shaking and short of breath, and went to sit down. I tried to hide my tears but they kept coming. It was uncontrollable. I had been conned out of money (which I may have failed to mention) in Kuta, my Mum was going through a horrible time and I couldn't comfort her, I couldn't see Will for another 3 months and now my bike has been stolen!!

Steve arrived and I hid in my embaressment. I didn't do a good job as he saw me and came and sat down beside me. He smiled, put his hand on my shoulder and comforted me. He gave me a somewhat inspirational speech that made me put things into perspective, telling me everything's OK and that everyone was behind me. I had such a great support system round me. I was doing a job I loved and was living in an Island paradise. Everything's OK.

I came to realise that I just wasn't putting things into perspective and that by not dealing with my issues straight away, and bottling up the emotions, the small issues became big ones. I was oozing negativity and it was generating bad karma. I was my own worst enemy, my thoughts were constantly clouded and I wasn't expressing how I felt. It rang true for a lot of my life. Small problems became big ones when I didn't deal with them. Emotions ran wild after supressing them for too long. I was coming to realise that I needed to believe in myself more, coming to realise that a problem shared really is a problem halved and coming to realise that I have so much potential. Longing to find a purpose, this really was becoming a journey of self-discovery.

Feeling calm and collected, I went back to work. In no time the smile was back on my face. When we finished, we all took a trip to Sari Organic for lunch. Just outside of the city centre, we were transported to the Bali I had been longing to see. Nestled amongst rice paddies, the tranquil landscape calmed and comforted me. It was a beautiful sunny day, the birds were singing and I was in paradise. I am so thankful for all I have experienced so far. This was one of my highlights! After lunch, we all went to have a look at the restaurants organic garden. We got to see what techniques they had been using and talked about ways we thought they could improve their practice. I really enjoyed generating some ideas. I'm starting to learn more and more.

That evening Suha decided to leave. He said he had been feeling out of place for a while and he found it difficult to communicate. It was unexpected but he said he would return. He never did. Me and Justin were feeling slightly perplexed but equally understanding. We both knew deep down that something was up, but unlike myself, Suha felt unable to express what he had been dealing with. What an emotional day!

When Lindsey arrived the next day for work we found out she was upset. That same night, she had found out something about a guy she was dating that she didn't want to. We both decided we needed to get away for a while. After work we both headed to town and booked a tour for that weekend.

Friday night we were back at Steve and Rebecca's for dinner. The usual crew was there, and we drank into the wee hours of the morning. Left feeling hungover, me and Lindsey were off at 8am to catch the bus for our tour.

Krazy Kuta

The first full week flew by. I got to know everyone a lot better and managed to slowly ease into work. It was hard and tiring but fun none the less - 'play time' as Justin likes to call it. Afternoons were free, and I spent most of them reading. In the evening, Suha and I tended to buy our food from local food stalls, spending 60p on average for veggies and rice. Local food is by far the cheapest, and probably the best food in Ubud. Gado Gado has become my favourite. It is a local dish with many variations. Essentially it is vegetables, rice and a spicy peanut sauce (just like sate). Some places serve it with tofu or tempe, others with egg and crackers. Each one tastes slightly different, but all taste yummy!

Suha and I headed to town Thursday to sample some of the nightlife. We ended up eating in a really expensive looking restaurant called 'Sagittarius'. Near the bottom of Monkey Forest Rd, it is a smallish eatery with oil paintings on the walls and candles on the tables. Opening the menu, I was surprised to find how reasonable the prices were. I order Mediterranean veg and salad and a large beer altogether costing less than 4GBP. I left with money in my pocket and food in my belly. We then headed to a place called Boom Boom for drinks. Hoping to see similar prices, I opened the drinks menu. Cocktails started at 5GBP and the cheapest drink on the menu was coffee: I decided to take the sobering option

We spent Friday working in Rebecca's garden, planting seedlings, creating raised beds and sowing seeds. In return, we were rewarded with a great lunch cooked by Rebecca. After we were finished, me and Suha made our way back to THK, packed our bags and headed to Kuta. I never had any intentions of paying Kuta a visit but as Suha was driving to return his bike there anyway I couldn't turn down the free lift. It took almost two hours to get there as the traffic was heavy and we kept getting lost. We arrived at about 4pm, and then parted ways. I checked into a hotel and booked some surfing lessons for the next day. A guy I met over coffee suggested I seek out Ewan as he gives private tutoring. I went with his advice.

I walked around aimlessly for a while and then decided to go for dinner. It was a solitary occassion and wasn't very enjoyable. I was gawped at for reading a book! There are a severe lack of book-worms in Kuta, so unless you have a beer in your hand you are considered an outlaw. Trying to ignore the unwanted attention, I immersed myself in the life of Karl Marks. Feeling rather deflated, I weighed up whether or not to go out. I know my intentions for travelling were not to get blind drunk, but I thought I would make an acception on this occasion... when in Rome.

Heading towards Legian Street, I began to hear the music pumping. Bright lights, tall buildings and drunk Aussies were all I could see. It reminded me of Guild Hall walk back home and I had to take a moment to realise what I was letting myself in for. Choosing the most appealing bar on the strip, I headed to the Reggae Bar. It was fairly empty when I arrived, so I pulled up a bar stoll and got chatting to the barman. A Javanese Rasta, he spoke fluent English and could make a great cocktail. I ended up having a really good conversation with him and he managed to teach me some Indonesian. When the bar was more full, and I felt drunk enough to socialise, I headed to a table and introduced myself to two Aussie girls and their three Indonesian friends. We all hit it off and I ended up staying out with them till about 4am. We ended the night in Sky Garden, a kind of super club split across several floors. I remember dancing to the music and thinking it was the best music I had ever heard, but actually have no memory of what was playing.

Stumbling home, I caught sight of a 24hr internet cafe. What a great time to phone Will I thought. It was 9pm UK time when I skyped him and although I don't remember what I said to him, I remember there was a lot of crying involved. Realising I was a drunken mess and had to be up in 3 hours for surfing, I headed to bed.

Urghhh. I was still drunk when I woke up. It was set to be the worst hangover I had ever experienced and couldn't see how I could possibly surf in this state. I walked to the surf shop and asked for it to be postponed, but no luck! Shit. I boarded the back of this guys moped, he attached my surfboard and we headed to the beach.

Ewan greeted me and plied me with coffee. Normally coffee does something to make me feel better, but today there was no liquid nourishment to be had. We walked down to the shores edge and laid down the surf board. What was to follow bears no repeating...

I was awful! I could barely support my own weight, heavy from the amount of alcohol still in my system. I tried to copy what Ewan did but every time I failed. He was calm and patient and I still have no idea how! I complained the whole time and was almost in tears at one point. I don't think he realised I was hungover and I don't think I realised I probably had alcohol poisoning. For four hours I tried to perfect my surfing, and for four hours I failed. When Ewan finally entrusted me to enter the water, I managed to just face plant on every attempt of catching a wave. I think there may have been one occassion when I managed to stand for a few seconds, but I don't think it constitutes surfing. I really, really, really don't advice drinking the night before you go surfing.

Still feeling like poo, I went and ordered myself a bowl of pasta... maybe that will make me feel better. No. Ok, I'll try coffee. No. Sleeping?

All the methods I usually rely on when hungover failed. I felt dazed and confused, I could feel the acid in my stomach burning and my whole body was like a dead weight. I had arranged to meet Suha in the evening for a drink, but I couldn't stomach it. All I had to do was hold on for a few more hours, then I could go to sleep and wake up better the next day!

I decided to check my emails to find my Mum had sent me an urgent message to ring her. When I finally got hold of her, I knew something was wrong. She made me turrn on the webcam so she could see me.

You OK Mum?
No.
What's happened?
I knew what was coming.
Your Nan passed away last night.
Pause.
Oh, Mum. I'm so sorry.

We had a very emotional talk and I left feeling helpless. I wanted to be at my Mums side to tell everything was alright. I wanted to hug her and tell her how much I love her. I wanted to mourn for my Nan but feel there was no privacy in this hell hole. I headed to bed.

With my hangover still lingering, I decided to do something with my last day! I headed to the beach to sunbathe. I sunbathed all morning and then swiftly made my way to the bus stop. I hoped on and drifted off to sleep shortly after. About an hour after leaving, I was safely back home. I was so glad to be home!

Meet the new people in my life x

Arriving on a Thursday meant that it was but one day of work before the weekend. Bonus! Arriving in the afternoon, I met one of the interns, Suha, from Turkey. He was the only one at Tri Hita Karana and went out of his way to accommodate me. He gave me the low-down on daily life and then dropped me in town to explore. I ended up getting horrendously lost as my spatial awareness skills were playing up, taking me almost two hours to navigate back. 

The town of Ubud is beautiful and is considered the cultural heart of Bali. Traditional dances are still performed on a nightly basis and festivals are celebrated with fervor. Yet, my first experience was somewhat tainted by the number of westerners and amount of superfluous convenience. Warungs (small, family owned restaurants, normally outdoors) still remain, but most have been modified, catering for those with bigger wallets. Yoga shops intersperse health food restaurants and alternative therapy stores and the compounds of residents lay hidden behind the facades. Pockets of the Ubud of  yesteryear still remain but they can only be found on close inspection. 

I returned to THK all hot and flustered. Justin, the intern coordinator I had been liasing with, was there to greet me. An Aussie with attitude, his demeanour took some getting used to. He was brash and rude and I felt slightly awkward round him. He questioned why I choose to volunteer on a permaculture project and was rather interrogating. Left feeling slightly uneased, he headed to bed. Was this the right decision to come here? Was it going to be a repeat of South Africa?

I stared into the dark night, stars in abundance, shining brighter than those in the West. I sat contemplating, listening to the symphony of crickets on the ground, insects in the trees and toads in the paddies. I felt safe and settled if not a little apprehensive. Heading to bed, I was unaware of the events that were to unfold. The emotional turmoil and battle of self discovery; the loss of a loved one; the gain of some best friends and the inspiring words from each of them. Bali had opened its arms to me and I was prepared to be embraced. Drifitng off to sleep, I was yet to discover that Justin, the rude and crude Australian, was set to become a big influence on my life. I slept well that night.

***

I woke at 7.30am the next day, got ready, and set to work at 9am. Gyan, an Aussie, and Lindsey, from Montana, US, were there to greet me. Both are great characters with even greater stories to tell.

Gyan spent the past few years of his life living in NZ but after meeting a beautiful American named Rachel, at a festival in NZ, he decided to move to Bali to spend more time with her and her son. Rachel has an Indonesian father and American mother. She owns Soma, a restaurant specialising in raw food, and is a Permaculture practioner. Gyan has the same passions in life and is a great influence on her son. They are both full-on hippies, but I love that about them. Kind-hearted, fun-loving, beautiful people.

Lindsey has spent the past 6 years as a self-confessed 'office monkey'. Doing agriculture statistics for the government, she was fed up of the 9-5. Not many Americans have the freedom to travel, unlike Europe. They are allowed very little time off and, when they get it, most people choose to just stay within their jurisdiction. I heard that 50% of Americans don't even have a passport, although most Americans I have spoken to say it is more like 75%. Bearing this in mind, Lindsey quit her job, sold her car, put her house up for rent and came half the way round the world. Bali is her first destination, but plans to travel for at least a year. Friends and family frowned upon the idea, but she has made it a reality. Although she is still getting over the initial shock of being an independent traveller, she has done well to settle in. She is fun to be a round and I warmed to her instantly. She is inquisitive and like me, looking to find out who she really is.

Shortly after their arrival, Steve turned up. I didn't know much about Steve to be honest. Going through a middle man (Global Nomadic) meant that I never really felt the need to do my research. I thought I worked for Chakra of THK and that was it. Steve, however, is the man in charge. My mentor and my trainer.

 Steve is another Aussie, but of a more passive nature. With a few more years under his belt, he is a slightly quieter, less vulgar, and more observant character than Justin. Steve was in the Army for 18 years, and has been to some of the most poverty-stricken and war-torn nations. After leaving, Steve joined the UN. He was an aid worker but shortly came to realise that money was not being well spent. The poor were still poor and aid was piling up. Using his initiative, he decided to quit and start up his own organisation, under the name of 'Green Warriors'. This man has seen it all, been to some of the darkest places on earth and yet he still keeps faith. Faith in humanity to make a change and promote sustainability. Faith in his interns to be the change they wish to see and faith in me, to follow in his footsteps and leave only footprints. ;)

Steve is an International Sustainability Consultant and Permaculture Design and Aid Specialist. He has been working on limited funds to make Bali a sustainable and self-sufficient island. Bali's Hindu culture is entrenched in Animism. They believe Gods exist within the hills, lay beneath the surface, whisper in the winds, watch from the skies and live within animals. Respecting each deity is key to acceptance into the afterlife and thus the Gods are revered. Yet the culture, as it catches up with the 21st century, is losing touch of its roots, and the Gods that lurk within. By promoting Permaculture, Steve is not only promoting sustainability, he is reconnecting a culture with its religious foundations.

(Please note that I am not going to talk much about working life.. this is a  travel blog. For more info on my work with Green Warriors, please checkout the Green Warrior Permaculture facebook page or website)

***

Suha invited me to Padang Bai for the weekend. Not having my own form of transport, and eager to explore, I said yes without hesitation. Leaving first thing Saturday, we headed an hour East to the beach resort. Padang Bai is the gateway to Lombok and the Gillies. It consists of a strip of beaches, sea-front restaurants and hotels and a few good bars. Checking in to our bungalow, we headed to Blue lagoon beach. I imagine crystal clear waters, the sea lapping the shore and people bathing beneath palm trees. The smell of the sea is calling me! We climb the insanely steep hill and descend toward the beach. Reality hits. The tide is in and so is all the rubbish. Flip flops and bottles lap the shore. The cove is deserted but the hawkers are still there in their hoards.

Massage?
You must be joking.
Later?
Seriously?

We leave the beach thoroughly dissapointed. Luckily Suha knows of another beach. Maybe more luck this time? We head a few minutes south of blue lagoon (a deceptive name if you ask me!). After an even steeper climb, we slip and slide down to the beach on the other side. The tide is high, but sand is visible. Finally!! I chuck my stuff on the floor, lay down my towel, strip down to my bikini and face-plant, most ungracefully, burying my head in my towel. Finally, I can relax. I lay under a palm canopy, protecting me from the midday heat. Within minutes I'm asleep. Sheer exhaustion finally takes over, and I succumb to it gladly!

Waking, several hours later, me and Suha headed out to a Reggae bar for drinks and live music. The music was great and beer cold.  We met a really nice couple, recounted tales of travelling and nodded along to the music. Bob Marley and Manu Chao were just a few of the artists covered.... I went to bed feeling relaxed, if not a little tipsy.

Arriving back late Sunday, we headed straight to Steve's house. Steve, Justin and Lindsey were there all ready. We all sat on the porch, overlooking the garden adorned with fairy lights. The sounds from the surrounding paddies provided a great backdrop and the company was great. Shortly before 11pm, Rebecca showed up. I had spoke to Rebecca briefly before I came to Bali, and knew all about her work. She is the creator and executive director of  The Paradigm Shift Project: a Canadian NGO 'changing the way we see and support the developing world through documentary media'. I was inspired by her work and am now inspired by her. She is gentile yet passionate, a great cook and up for adventure. I can't wait to recount my experiences I've shared with her!

Till next time x

Bali beginnings

The view from the airplane as it came into land was magical. The clouds all but covered Bali, yet small peaks from its many mountains could be seen emerging and the odd break in the blanket revealed pockets of the brightest green. The suns rays penetrated the cabin, filling it with warmth and light as the plane pierced through the clouds to reveal a landscape enshrouded in forest, scattered with rice paddies and dotted with crystal-clear pools of water. I had arrived at my new home!

I arrived at 11.30am to a slight breeze and intense heat, yet, unlike the mainland, the island of Bali experiences very little humidity. I was not drenched in sweat like I had been for the past month, and was not as apprehensive as I had been elsewhere. I felt a sense of calm and a desire to start work. Working two jobs for the past 9 months and having very little social life had all been worth it!

Leaving the capital of Denpasar, I caught a taxi to the town of Ubud, where I was to reside for the next 2 months. The island retains an old-world charm with narrow roads dispersed with palms and beautiful Indonesian architecture. People are seen cycling past, or walking along the sides of the road. Mopeds wizz by. One, two, three, and even four people perch on the seat of the bike, some carrying livestock, others carrying produce. Some in traditional dress heading to ceremonies, some in casual 'western' clothing heading to and from work. Everything is new and exciting. Kites are flying high in the sky. Offerings are placed all over the ground. The Hindu culture is so entrenched in this nation that it proves to be almost overwhelming. The spirit of the Island seeps into the pores and radiates in your smile. I am glad to be home.

Bitter-sweet end to my month on the mainland

My last night in Kanchanaburi was a great end to my trip. I went out with everyone from the Jolly Frog and ended up back our trusty bar, playing Jenga and rounds of pool. I know how to play the game and I sometimes surprise myself at how good I am, although it was tonight was not the case. After failing miserably I went on to recover some dignity by being a master at Jenga. Leaving at closing time, we walked back towards the hostel. Across the road, in the dark of the night, we were summoned by a group of locals sat on plastic stools. We decided to check it out. The owner of the Sugar Lounge, appropriately named Sugar, was sat on the roadside with her staff, three of which were international: two American girls and one British. 6 local guys sat either side and a guy with an eye-patch sat next to Sugar. The one-eyed man was in fact the owner of the Jolly Frog and was a great character. Everyone spoke really good English even though they were all half-cut. Sugar opened up her bar and brought us all shots and beer. We proceeded to drink the bar dry, playing drinking games till 5am. Characters kept appearing from the nearby bars, including a blurry eyed Rasta. He was on hippy crack and was pretty incomprehensible, making for some interesting viewing. We all stumbled back as dawn was breaking. A well deserved sleep lay ahead.

I surfaced just before noon and made my way to the garden where everyone else was hanging out beneath the palm trees. We all made our goodbyes and I headed on out. I took an hour long bus drive to a nearby town and managed to catch the last minibus to Ayutthaya. Arriving in the evening I checked into a guest house called Nick's place. Realising I had run out of cash, I went to the cash point to withdraw some money. To my horror, my card had disappeared! Where could it have gone? Did I leave it in Kanchanaburi? Had it been stolen? I ran back to the guest house and they went out of their way to help me. They phoned the Jolly Frog first thing, but the card was nowhere to be seen. I brought another card with me, but it was back in Bangkok!! I panicked and became withdrawn and anxious. My flight was in 24 hours!

Will came to my rescue! I managed to borrow some baht to use the internet and managed to Skype him. It has always been difficult for us to coordinate times to speak, but he happened to be on the exact same time I was. Thank God. I asked him what to do, and he said he would transfer some money to Western Union. I was there the next day when the bank opened and rushed to the counter to collect my money. It was such a relief, but the whole ordeal had dampened my spirits. I no longer wanted to explore the former kingdom of Siam and its many temples so back I went, onto another minibus and back to Bangkok.

I had been travelling non-stop for 31 days. I had been in 4 countries, stayed in over 15 hostels, been to over 30 destinations and used almost every mode of transport to get there. I had hiked up mountains, traversed through wilderness, visited close to 100 temples and met over 100 new and exciting people. I walked, ran, cycled, jogged, fell, got up, scrambled, clambered and hiked. I learnt how to wake board, kayaked, swam and white water rafted. I was bitten, bruised, blistered and achy. I had been living on very little sleep and drank copious amounts of coffee. I had thrown up, passed out and had recurring travelers diarrhea. And you know what, it was worth every second! I ate great food, experienced some of the worlds wonders of nature and met people have inspired and transformed me. I am grateful to everyone and everything I encountered on my journey, good and bad!

Leaving was bitter-sweet, but I managed to 'pass the torch' as I left the mainland behind. I met Larkin in the airport. An American from Georgia, he was just starting his journey. I recounted my tails and ripped out my section on Thailand from the lonely planet to give to him. He bought me a beer. He made my 6 hour wait for check in seem like mere minutes. I know you have probably returned home now Larkin, but I hope Thailand was everything you had wished for.

Kanchanaburi: peace returns

All that cycling had made me thirsty and only a stiff drink was suitable after the sights I had encountered. Heading to the Jolly Frog, a guest house set back from the main road, overlooking the river Kwai, I met a couple called Jess and Josh. We proceeded to drink Sam Song whiskey and soda and talk about our travel experiences. After finishing the bottle, we decided to move on and headed to the only lively bar in town - the place where I ate my lunch. We order more whiskey and played some Jenga. Before long, there were 8 of us at the table. Everyone was staying at the Jolly Frog and raved about how good it was. I decided that was where I should relocate to! After polishing of another bottle of whiskey, I decided to call it a night as I did, after all, have to get up at 8am!

My journey home was horrendous. I almost got mauled by a bunch of barking dogs, potentially sending me flying of my bike, and returned to find my bungalow infested with bugs! The bed was crawling with tiny black insects and I had no idea why they where there or where they had come from. I resorted to using my towel to beat the crap out of them, trying to sweep them onto the floor. I was in a drunken haze and being far to over-dramatic, prancing about like a girl (yes, I am aware the fact that I am indeed female). Once I could see no more of the critters, I lathered myself in tiger balm, as I had no bug spray, climbed in my silk condom (sleeping bag liner for those in the know) and laid in the middle of my bed. Stiff as a plank, I started to burn from the heat of the tiger balm. Like deep heat, it is supposed to sooth sore skin and aching muscles, neither of which I was suffering from. My eyes began to well as I breathed in the intense smell radiating from my body and seeping from my pores. It made for one sleepless night

I was packed and ready first thing. Knowing that there were still insects lurking in the woodwork I wasted no time in leaving my cabin... it had all but lost its charm. The bus arrived and me and the girls climbed on - they had booked the same tour. An hour later, we arrived at the Erawan (7-steps) waterfall. It is hidden within the 500sq. km Erawan NP and, to date, has been the most beautiful sight I have encountered on my travels. The falls has been carved out of yellow limestone, making the water crystal clear. A subdued turquoise, the water shimmers and swirls as it gentle cascades down the slopes.  Starting at an elevation of 1500m, the falls meandered its way down through dense forest to met the Kwai Yai River. The trek to each level is more of a scramble than a climb, a sort of assault course that requires good footwear. My sandals managed to make the journey, but it is certainly inadvisable. Climbing over tangled tree roots, fallen branches and, precariously placed boulders, you duck and dive through the undergrowth, trying hard not to lose your footing. Each level had a steeper incline and more obstacles, but each level was more magical than the last.

Upon entering the park you have to pay a deposit of 50 baht for each bottle you take in. It is a great system as it means rubbish is kept to a minimal and preserves the parks natural beauty. However, it is also in place  as to prevent any unwanted guests. Wild monkeys reside in the park and are not afraid of wandering tourists. We first spotted a monkey when we were at the third step. Hearing a rustle in the trees, me and the girls pointed our cameras skywards. A few moments later, the monkey clambered down and scurried past us. It kindly posed for some picture but lost its temper soon after: we decided it was a good time to leave.

We had around 4 hours in the park and needed every second. It meant that we could climb at a leisurely pace, and allowed us to take a dip at a few of the tiers. All the pools have small fish that nip at you when you are stationery. Unpleasant at first, it soon becomes rather therapeutic. All through SEA, there are vendors offering fish spas. It is basically a tank full of these fish, but instead of free flowing water, it is a thick, murky aqueous solution of dead skin. I never saw the appeal, but having a free one at the waterfalls was definitely a highlight.

Finally making it to the top after almost two hours of treachery, we were greeted by a billowing roar. The final tier was the most spectacular; a 70 foot waterfall crashed against the rocks below carving out a deep but modestly sized pool. Inviting and deservedly so! We all slid from the limestone into the pool and eased are aching muscles. Shrubs predominated the banks allowing us to stare up at the clear sky, the colour resembling that of the falls. Basking in the sun, we breathed in the clear air; filling our lungs with the smell of sweet-perfumed flowers and freshly fallen rain. Birds could be heard whispering in the trees, whilst monkeys scrambled through the branches, snapping them as they went. The climb was all worth it! 


Our next stop was the death railway bridge, so-called as so many POWs lost their lives whilst building it. The tracks of the bridge hug the hillside and tower over the river Kwai. Steel posts interlink to form the main structure, whilst wooden beams form the tracks. We walk along part of the track to a small cave and shrine, created to honour all those that lost their lives. A monk sits chanting. I sit down behind him and pay respect to all those enslaved. I am the only one to do so.

We walked back to the platform and await the arrival of the train. Only a small part of the thai-burma railway remains in use. School children and farmers use it almost daily, but the tourist mob seem to outnumber the locals. The train ride is short but enjoyable and the scenery is great. We passed several villages, rolling hills and fields full of flowers. The sun was sinking in the sky and the warming glow created the perfect backdrop to the unfolding landscape. 

On the way back to town, we made our last stop at the bridge over Kwai. Architecturally beautiful, it pained me to think of the lives lost in its construction. I stared from the bridge and into the distant. The sun was setting. The Kwai was glistening, basking in the remaining rays of light. It had been a perfect day and one I will never forget.